Cafe de los Angelitos

Los Angelitos, sitting on busy Avenida Rivadivia, is clearly an establishment dedicated to one thing. From the stained glass to the pictures lining the wall, it is obvious that it’s all about tango. Large, flash, tourist-friendly tango shows run nightly upstairs.
Los Angelitos
There has been a cafe on this corner since the 1890s, but after a compete refit 5 years ago, nothing remains of the original. These days the cafe is large, open and well-lit.
Los Angelitos
As with several of the refurbished cafes I’ve visited, much of the atmosphere seems to have gone along with the original fittings – I did like the tiles which certainly add a touch of flair.
Tiles, Angelitos
Overall, the Cafe de los Angelitos didn’t leave a huge impression on me – worth a visit if you’re in the area, but I wouldn’t go out of my way.

Cafe de los Angelitos: Rivadavia 2100
Subte: Congreso, Line A

This page is part of a series examining the Notable Bars of Buenos Aires.

La Embajada

Tucked in next to the Palacio Barolo, a few metres from Avenida de Mayo, with a plain, non-descript facade, there is nothing to indicate that La Embajada is a bar. No name above the day, no stickers in the window, just some large wood-framed windows through which a few tables and a marble bar can be seen – a world in difference from the garish, brightly-lit Starbucks next door.

embajada-2

The waiter wears the red jacket and black trousers often seen in the more humble bars and even at 3pm there are still a few people finishing off a late lunch. The empty tables nearly all have a bottle of wine and a soda bottle, the mixture being a popular refreshing drink here (to the horror of many Europeans), and the remains of a part eaten milanesa. We’re in true classic territory here.

Remains of the day

Remains of the day

The bar is 100 years old this year, and there is absolutely no fanfare being made. No “Established in 1913” signs on the wall, in fact, nothing on the walls. Originally the space was the back rooms of the shop of the same name on the street corner. La Embajada sold the finest hams, cheeses and wines from the Old Continent and customers would often ask for a place to sit down and try the wares on-site – and the back room opened up.

Prices

Prices

The shop seems to be shut these days, but the bar still continues on. One nice touch is that La Embajada has its own brochure giving its history and pedigree as a Notable Bar. They either don’t give many out, or were given too many of th as the mayor of the city listed on the back is Aníbal Ibarra who left power in 2006.

embajada-1

Like many of its fellow Notable Bar, La Emabajada has kept many of its original fittings, from the goose-neck water tap to the bar made from 4 types of Italian marble. What sets it apart however, is that it does so in a very low-key manner, drawing no attention to itself, just getting on with the important job of keeping the milanesas and soda coming.

La Embajada: Santiago del Estero 88
Subte: Saenz Peña, Line A

This page is part of a series examining the Notable Bars of Buenos Aires.

Arriving in Buenos Aires: Getting from the Airport to the City

For most first-time visitors, the simplest Buenos Aires airport transfer is a pre-booked private car, an official taxi or remis arranged inside the terminal, or a ride requested through an app using its designated pickup point. A shuttle can cost less if its schedule and city drop-off suit you. Public buses are best left to travelers with light luggage, time and confidence using the local system.

Before choosing, confirm which airport is printed on your booking. EZE is Ministro Pistarini International Airport, usually called Ezeiza, outside the city. AEP is Jorge Newbery Airport, usually called Aeroparque, beside the city. Both handle passenger flights, and an airport change is not a simple walk between terminals. The linked official English-language pages are useful for live flight information, airport services and current passenger notices.

Ezeiza International Airport serving Buenos Aires

[Top photo credit: Flickr//CC BY-NC-SA 2.0]

Your Buenos Aires arrival plan in 60 seconds

  1. Check whether your flight arrives at EZE or AEP.
  2. Save your accommodation’s full street address and contact details offline.
  3. Choose your transfer before landing, especially after a long flight or late at night.
  4. Keep your phone charged and make sure you can access mobile data or airport Wi-Fi.
  5. Use an official counter, marked taxi system or the pickup instructions inside your ride app.
  6. Ignore unsolicited ride offers in the arrivals hall.
  7. Keep one payment card and a small cash backup accessible, but not openly displayed.

Check Argentina’s entry requirements before flying

Entry rules depend on your nationality and can change. Check the Argentine immigration guidance for tourists and your airline’s requirements shortly before departure.

At the time of this fact check, US tourists can normally visit for up to 90 days without a tourist visa and need a valid passport. Travelers of other nationalities should not assume the same rules apply. Your airline and the relevant Argentine consulate are the right places to confirm a case that is not straightforward.

On arrival, follow the airport signs through immigration, baggage collection and customs. Declare goods, regulated items or large amounts of currency when required. Do not carry important medication, travel documents or the only copy of an accommodation address in checked luggage. Our Buenos Aires packing guide has the fuller pre-departure checklist.

Getting from Ezeiza Airport to Buenos Aires

Ezeiza is the principal long-haul international airport and sits outside the city. Road traffic varies substantially, so do not build the start of your trip around one guaranteed transfer time.

Pre-booked private transfer

This is usually the lowest-stress option after a long flight, for a family or group, or when carrying substantial luggage. Confirm the meeting instructions, total price, payment method, vehicle size, luggage capacity and what happens if the flight is delayed. Save the driver’s or company’s contact details before takeoff.

Official taxi or remis

An official taxi or remis, meaning a private hire car, can be arranged at authorized counters as you leave the arrivals area. BuenosTours’ usual recommendation at EZE is Taxi Ezeiza, a prepaid service with airport stands where you arrange a fixed-price journey before leaving the terminal. This is a practical first choice, not a suggestion that the airport’s other authorized services are unsuitable.

Whichever authorized operator you choose, confirm the total fare to your exact destination and whether tolls are included before paying or accepting the ride. Use the counter or signed official system rather than accepting an offer from someone approaching passengers.

Ride apps: Uber, Cabify and BA Taxi

Uber is currently available for pickups at both EZE and AEP, while Cabify publishes specific pickup instructions for EZE. At Aeroparque, BA Taxi is another useful option: it is the City of Buenos Aires’ official taxi app, and the airport has a designated waiting point for its passengers. Availability, prices and pickup zones can change, so check the app after collecting your luggage rather than relying on an old meeting-point description.

A ride app is most practical when your phone has data and your account and card already work abroad. Request the car only through the app, follow its live directions to the assigned pickup area and contact the driver through the app if needed. Before getting in, match the driver’s name, vehicle registration and car details to the booking. Do not accept a driver who approaches you outside the app or asks you to cancel the trip and pay privately.

Airport shuttle

Manuel Tienda León operates airport transfer services, including bus connections between Ezeiza, Aeroparque and its central Terminal Pellegrini. Check the current routes, timetable, luggage conditions and final stop on the company’s own site. This link is provided for practical information, not as a BuenosTours endorsement. A shuttle may be good value for one traveler with manageable luggage, but remember to plan the last part of the journey from its city terminal to your accommodation.

Public bus

Public buses are the lowest-cost option but usually the least convenient after an international flight. They take longer, are awkward with large bags and depend on the current local payment system. Consider them only if you are traveling light and are comfortable navigating public transport. See our Getting Around Buenos Aires guide for the fuller city transport advice.

Getting from Aeroparque to your accommodation

Aeroparque is much closer to central neighborhoods than Ezeiza. An official airport taxi, remis or ride app is normally straightforward. Use the marked airport system or your app’s current pickup instructions and give the driver the full street address, not just the hotel or apartment name.

Public transport may be practical for a traveler with light luggage, but it is not automatically the best choice after a flight. Choose based on your destination, arrival time, mobility and bags rather than distance alone.

If your itinerary changes airports

EZE and AEP are in different parts of the metropolitan area. An itinerary that lands at one and departs from the other requires a road transfer, and traffic can be unpredictable. Allow for immigration, baggage collection, the drive, check-in and security at the second airport. If your airline has sold the itinerary on one ticket, confirm whether the transfer and checked baggage are your responsibility.

For an airport change, a direct private transfer, official taxi or remis is usually easier than combining public transport with luggage. Do not rely on the shortest journey estimate shown by a map app.

Money, phones and luggage on arrival

You do not need to exchange your entire travel budget at the airport. Have a working card and a modest cash backup, then make a calmer decision after reaching your accommodation. Our maintained guide to money, cards and exchange rates in Argentina explains the current options.

Airport Wi-Fi can help you contact a driver, but do not make it your only plan. Save the address, booking confirmation and transfer instructions offline. Keep your luggage with you until it is placed in the vehicle, and do not hand a bag to an unsolicited helper.

Arriving by ferry, cruise ship or long-distance bus

Ferry and cruise terminals and the Retiro long-distance bus station place you closer to central Buenos Aires than Ezeiza, but they are still busy arrival points. Keep your bags close, use the official taxi area or a ride booked through your app, and have the exact destination ready. For onward travel after checking in, use our Getting Around Buenos Aires guide.

In port for one day? Our private Buenos Aires shore excursion is planned around your ship’s all-aboard time; include that time when you enquire. Prefer a shared walk? Ask about our planned small-group Buenos Aires shore excursion for selected cruise calls; departures and prices are still being assessed.

Our Buenos Aires safety guide covers bags, phones, taxis, late-night transport and other practical city precautions.

What should you book for your first full day?

Your airport transfer solves the first hour. The next challenge is understanding how Buenos Aires fits together. BuenosTours has been helping visitors do that since 2006. The small-group Buenos Aires Essentials Tour is designed as first-day orientation, with Half Day, Full Day and Full Day with La Boca options.

Choose an arrival day that leaves room for flight delays, sleep and an unhurried start. A tour should make the city easier to enjoy, not become another connection to race toward.

Frequently asked questions

Which Buenos Aires airport will I arrive at?

Check the three-letter code on the booking. EZE means Ezeiza or Ministro Pistarini International Airport. AEP means Aeroparque or Jorge Newbery Airport. Do not assume every international flight uses EZE.

What is the safest way to leave Ezeiza Airport?

Use a pre-booked transfer, an authorized airport taxi or remis counter, or a ride app with a confirmed driver and designated pickup point. BuenosTours normally recommends the prepaid Taxi Ezeiza counter as a straightforward EZE option. Do not accept unsolicited transport offers in the terminal.

Do I need Argentine pesos at the airport?

Not necessarily. A working foreign card plus a small backup is enough for many travelers, but payment methods vary by service. Confirm how your chosen transfer accepts payment before the trip.

Should I rent a car at the airport?

Usually not if you are staying in Buenos Aires. Traffic and parking add work without much benefit inside the city. A rental car makes more sense when the next part of the trip requires driving outside Buenos Aires.

Argentina Reciprocity Entry Fee Rescinded

Before arriving in Argentina tourists from Canada must pay a ‘reciprocity fee’ online via the Argentinian Immigration website and print the receipt to show on arrival. The fee has been suspended for US and Australian citizens!

La Puerto Rico

puerto-rico-1

Tucked away on a street just one block from the Plaza de Mayo La Puerto Rico feels like a long way from the hustle and bustle of the busy microcentro. There may be the occasional bus belching its way past but the bar itself had a very relaxed and peaceful feel.

Opened in 1887 (it was moved to the current premises in 1925), the bar takes its name from the country, the owner having lived there for several years with fond memories of the quality of its coffee.

puerto-rico-2

A lot of the original fittings remain, including 70 marble tables emblazoned with the bars name. I was lucky to get a chatty waiter (always a good sign) and after telling me about the fantastic tango and flamenco show La Puerto Rico offers he dropped a major bombshell on me.

You see, it turns out that not only the bar, but the very table at which I was sat, could be considered as hallowed ground, for none other than Jorge Bergoglio, now Pope Francisco I would come in for a morning coffee and sit in the seat opposite me.

The Papal Chair

The Papal Chair

So, not only does La Puerto Rico have good coffee, a nice atmosphere and a wonderful tango show, but you might also find yourself sitting on the same chair as the Pope. And if that’s not a bar you’d want to visit, I don’t know what is.

La Puerto Rico: Alsina 420
Subte: Plaza de Mayo, Line A

This page is part of a series examining the Notable Bars of Buenos Aires.

Confitería Ideal

One of the grand old ladies of the Buenos Aires cafe scene, the Confitería Ideal opened 101 years ago in 1912 and has been serving Buenos Aires society ever since.

ideal-1

Known for its afternoon milongas where locals have been coming to dance tango for decades, the Ideal has catered to everyone from presidents to artists.

So, I was a little disappointed when I walked in on a Tuesday afternoon and was confronted by a large and gloomy open space, empty apart from a couple of waiters milling around at the far end.

ideal-2

I sat down, snapped a few pictures and was ignored for over 10 minutes despite there being not a single other client in the room. So I left. I’ll give it another try one day, but for the time being I remain deeply unimpressed.

Confitería Ideal: Suipacha 384
Subte: 9 de Julio, Line D

This page is part of a series examining the Notable Bars of Buenos Aires.

Boston City

When visiting a Notable Bar, the best source of information is the staff. More often than not the average Porteño waiter is more than happy to chat away for a few minutes on the history of the bar, how things used to be back in the day.

Boston City

Boston City

So, it didn’t bode well when I asked the waiter in Boston City in which year the bar had opened and he didn’t know. We established it was more than 50 but less than 100. To be honest I wasn’t that bothered about finding out. The cafe has an interesting design with the circular bar echoed in the seating area of the balcony above, but apart from that it’s dark, uninteresting and the coffee was really bad.

Galeria Guemes

Galeria Guemes Roof

Boston City does have one thing going for it however, and that’s its location in Galeria Guemes, one of the more spectacular buildings in central Buenos Aires. Designed by Italian architect Francisco Gianotti (also responsible for the Confiteria del Molino and La Inmobiliaria), Galeria Guemes, at 80 metres tall was considered the city’s first skyscraper when it opened in 1913.

Galeria Guemes

Galeria Guemes

Today, the ground floor is clogged with booths selling everything from crackers to perfumes, but look up and you’ll see one of the best-kept secrets in Buenos Aires.

Boston City: Florida 165
Subte: Catedral, Line D

This page is part of a series examining the Notable Bars of Buenos Aires.

Petit Colón

On the corner of Plaza Lavalle and a block from both the Teatro Colón (meaning Columbus rather than intestine) and the Obelisco, the Petit Colón is a very stylish and sophisticated establishment that no doubt does a roaring trade feeding and watering the lawyers from the courthouse across the street.

Petit Colón

Petit Colón

Surprisingly, the bar has only been operating since 1978 although it looks like it should have been around for a lot longer. It is currently showing off a year-long renovation program and it was certainly worth the time.

Petit Colón Cakes and Bar

Petit Colón Cakes and Bar

Long and narrow, light comes in from long, high windows and the mix of light and dark woods, plush wallpaper and brass fittings gives an airy and laidback feel, helped by the smooth jazz coming from the speakers.

Petit Colón Table Detail

Petit Colón Table Detail

Given its location The Petit Colón is catering to a professional crowd and is not going for the regular bar feel. The renovation has borne fruit, it looks fantastic and despite its relative youth on the cafe scene, it can certainly compete with the older places in providing a real Porteño experience.

Petit Colón Cash Till

Petit Colón Cash Till

Petit Colón: Libertad 505
Subte: Tribunales, Line D

This page is part of a series examining the Notable Bars of Buenos Aires.

The New Brighton

With its dark wood, mirrors and glass The New Brighton looks as though it comes from a different age, although it turns out it’s only been open since 2002.

The New Brighton

The New Brighton

Named after a gentlemen’s outfitter operating on the premises since 1908, it changed to a restaurant in the 1940s but its fortunes changed and it closed down in the 1990s, reopening in 2002 with the moniker “New” to differentiate it from previous iterations.

Beer in The New Brighton

Beer in The New Brighton

The interior is spotless and sparkling with the mirrors and glasses hanging from the bar reflecting the lights, giving the place a very sophisticated feel. The beer I ordered came with a sizable selection of open sandwiches, although at 8 dollars (44 pesos), the extra grub was not unjustified.

The New Brighton bar

The New Brighton bar

The New Brighton is not necessarily the sort of place I would go to often, but there’s no denying that it adds a certain class to the bars and cafes in central Buenos Aires and it’s good to know that it is there.

The New Brighton: Sarmiento 645
Subte: Lavalle, Line C

This page is part of a series examining the Notable Bars of Buenos Aires.

Le Caravelle

Squeezed into narrow premises on busy pedestrian street Lavalle you’d be forgiven for walking past Le Caravelle and never noticing it. With bright strip lighting and its lack of table with just 2 bars and stools the bar doesn’t seem to have changed at all since opening in 1962.

Le Caravelle

Le Caravelle

At 3:30pm on a grey Friday afternoon it was doing respectable business with an all-male clientele drinking coffee and eating small ham and cheese sandwiches. The decor clearly hasn’t been updated since opening and above the cashiers desk 3 clocks show the time in Buenos Aires, Madrid and Athens.

Drinks, Le Caravelle

Drinks, Le Caravelle

Le Caravelle is one of those time capsules where the modern world outside flashes past, yet inside those walls time barely moves and the coffee machine just keeps on bubbling away.

Le Caravelle: Lavalle 726
Subte: Lavalle, Line C

This page is part of a series examining the Notable Bars of Buenos Aires.