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San Telmo Sunday Fair / Feria
Buenos Aires Antiques and Beyond
The Feria de San Telmo is one of the most notable and popular events that takes place in Buenos Aires. Nestled in one of the oldest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, the San Telmo Fair is bustling with unique artisans and antiques every Sunday from about 10am to 4pm (depending on the season and the weather). Perhaps its greatest qualities, besides the architecturally beautiful neighborhood which it calls home, are its exclusive goods and reliable nature. Never a Sunday will there be without tourists pouring into the cobblestone streets of San Telmo for one of a kind antiques, trinkets, art, tango and delicious food.
Set your alarm, it’s morning in San Telmo
The true Feria de San Telmo is in Plaza Dorrego, although, it spills out into the surrounding blocks making it almost impossible to see the entire fair in just one Sunday. Plaza Dorrego houses mostly antique booths where one can find any number of valuables. Some, like original matchbox cars, gramophones and old telephones, which are still fully functional, may fetch a more expensive price, but the authenticity and uniqueness of these antiques make it well worth the extra pesos.
Many booths house truly one of a kind relics where a handmade backgammon board, full dinette sets and antique garments make you feel like you’re looking through your grandmother’s attic rather than a street fair. Antique knives, old jewelry and a myriad of figurines earn a spot in nearly every booth and soda siphons, artwork, mate trinkets and leather goods are in abundance. While the latter may begin to feel redundant all of these effects are an excellent example of Buenos Aires’ charming nature and rich history, and all of them deserve a spot on your shelf.
The Feria de San Telmo isn’t a time to speed shop, as walking too quickly through Plaza Dorrego may cause you to miss the very thing you’ve been looking for. Each booth ultimately has something different to offer and time well spent will turn up something to earn you “Ooohs and Ahhhs” the next time you have guests over.
Take a load off while you load up on anything you want
If you’ve built up an appetite, Plaza Dorrego is bordered by quaint eateries, cafes and bars. One of the varying prices and styles is sure to offer you the exact mid-day break you are looking for. For a taste of home with Argentine style, you can always meander your growling tummy down Defensa Street, an excellent way to view more of the fair. On Defensa, pick up some choripan (a chorizo sausage sandwich) to go and maximize your time munching away happily as you continue shopping (one of the few ways you’ll find mobile food in Argentina). Of course, Buenos Aires never disappoints with a lack of restaurants and a few blocks up or down Defensa and you’re sure to find a place that fits your mood.
Don’t spend it all in one place
If you need a break from the brassy pots and old-style belongings, Defensa provides a more modern attempt at souvenirs. Naturally, leather goods and alpaca furs still pop up from booth to booth, but younger artisans with interesting clothing designs and modern jewelry are a welcome change from the antiques of Plaza Dorrego and the antique stores lining Defensa. If you have room in your suitcase or a place in the corner of your room, quirky lamps and art pieces are a must see. If your outfit needs jazzing up, then the scarves, hats and purses will surely catch your eye.
It’s a beautiful Sunday, enjoy the view
If you happen to remember to take your eyes off of the endless maze of booths and gaze upward, the architecture of San Telmo is spectacular and a relic all on its own. San Telmo boasts extremely beautiful buildings that stand as they were, when they were built over a hundred years ago. In fact, the walk from Plaza de Mayo towards Plaza Dorrego is almost as rewarding architecturally as it is for day shopping. Another reason to perhaps leave the house early, and take your time.
If you’ve somehow managed to enjoy all the fair has to offer, and remembered to take Defensa all the way to Parque Lezama, which has its own street fair and flea market, let yourself wander through more of the surrounding blocks. San Telmo’s quaint and quirky nature is spellbinding, and a right turn here or left turn there, and a ten-man orchestra has attracted your attention.
Many of the street performers here deserve a closer look and many of them are geared towards the kids. (It’s important to mention as well, that you certainly won’t leave without catching a street tango performance). Be sure to mark the map with any museums you pass along the way. These gorgeous buildings are eye catching and if they’re not open on Sunday they deserve a day for themselves during the workweek.
Getting there is half the fun
If you’ve taken advantage of San Telmo the way it’s intended, you might need an extra suitcase home and more shelf room once you arrive. The best way to tackle the fair is walking from Plaza de Mayo down Defensa. It’s a wonderful transition from the city and an architectural delight. However, if you prefer to start closer to Plaza Dorrego and jump-start your antique splurge, there is a Subte (subway) stop on the C line at Avenida San Juan, about 6 blocks away from the fair. Like any true gem of a city attraction, don’t expect the fair to jump right out in front of you. From the right (or rather, wrong) side street you can almost miss it, making the San Telmo fair a real Buenos Aires treasure.
Location of the Feria de San Telmo
Plaza Dorrego, corner of Defensa & Humberto Primo, San Telmo
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[…] San Telmo Feria, Buenos Aires: This is a Sunday fair. Many of the booths here are filled with antiques of various styles, quality and price. The fair extends into the interior of the city blocks. The large warehouses are filled with different shops with unique goods. This is a great place to watch old style Argentine life. […]
These posts are great – very informative!
Im planning on visiting in October – but will only be in Buenos Aires for one Sunday. How would you suggest I break up the day between San Telmo and the Feria de Matadores?
[Reply]
I’m plannning going just for 1 sunday and i don’t know what is better….Mataderos or Sam Telmo???????
please some advice!!!!!!!!
[Reply]
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My husband and I will be in Buenos Aires next Easter and we’re hoping to visit the San Telmo Feria, however the only Sunday we will be there is Easter Sunday . We’d love to know if the makets still go ahead on Easter Sunday.
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admin Reply:
November 30th, 2015 at 5:54 pm
Hi Gaby,
Thanks for reading and for your question. The San Telmo feria usually opens on Easter Sunday, although it may be slightly scaled down compared to normal.
Enjoy!
Alan
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We are in Buenos Aires until the 1st January and would love to attend the markets this coming Sunday 27th December.. Just wondering whether they will still be open given it is over tje Christmas period?
[Reply]
admin Reply:
December 23rd, 2015 at 2:29 pm
Hello Sophie,
Thanks for your comment! The Feria will be running on Sunday 27th as normal, although there might be slightly fewer stalls than usual. Have fun!
Alan
[Reply]
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Do the flea markets take credit cards or cash only?
[Reply]
admin Reply:
April 3rd, 2019 at 3:43 pm
Hi Jessica, in the vast majority of cases it’s cash only at the Feria de San Telmo (and at other such flea markets in Buenos Aires).
[Reply]
[…] San Telmo Sunday Market: A street of thousands of street vendors selling crafts, leather, antiques that happens every Sunday from about 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. San Telmo is one of the oldest areas of Buenos Aires, and has some incredible sights as well. Definitely worth the visit on a Sunday to see the market, and if you can stay for dinner, you can watch live Tango in the streets! […]
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