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Which Buenos Aires barrio should I stay in?

There is no simple answer to this question. It all depends on what type of person you are, and what you want to get out of your time in Buenos Aires. The following descriptions of the main areas to stay in Buenos Aires, Argentina should help you choose. Leave me a comment if you have any questions about a particular Barrio, Hotel or Hostel.

Busy pedestrian Florida street in the center of Buenos Aires‘Microcentro’ (City Center)

This area is OBVIOUSLY central! For many people this is ideal, and it will put you close to major tourist attractions such as the Obelisk, Plaza de Mayo, the Pink House, the Cathedral, Avenida de Mayo, Congress, Florida Shopping Street, Teatro Colon, Plaza San Martin and a whole lot more. However, in other ways it is not so perfect, because this area is also the most busy with dangerous traffic, polluted, noisy, and lacking in space. You have to weigh up these pros and cons to make your decision. But you do stay in the Microcentro, it is very easy to get around on the ‘subte’ (subway) system, which serves this area well, as opposed to most other parts of Buenos Aires.

The Recoleta Design buildingSlightly North of Center – Recoleta, Retiro, Barrio Norte

These are the most exclusive areas of the City of Buenos Aires (particularly Recoleta), where you will find high class hotels such the Alvear, Four Seasons and the Plaza. Although they obviously come at a price! In keeping with the exclusivity of these areas, you will also find some of the best (i.e. most expensive – though that shouldn’t matter too much as a visitor on the right side of the exchange rate for Argentine Pesos) shopping centres, leather shops, cafes, restaurants, bars, nightclubs, art galleries, and parks in Buenos Aires. Also, you should be fairly close to the remarkable Recoleta Cemetery, where Evita Peron is laid to rest among many other amazingly decadent mausoleums of the rich and famous. Recoleta and Retiro (mainly near Plaza San Martin) are probably the most pleasnatly upmarket areas to stay, if you have the cash required!

Yours truly, looking like an idiot in the Palermo Rosedal (Rose Gardens)A little Further North – Palermo

This is the largest barrio of Buenos Aires, mainly filled with tranquil, green parks. And so it can be one of the most laid-back areas to base yourselves in. Among the parks you will find the ‘Rosedal’ (Rose Garden), Botanic Gardens, Japanese Gardens and the Buenos Aires City Zoo. Parts of Palermo, such as Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho, are also fast becoming the hippest parts of BA, with fashionable bars, nightclubs, restaurants, boutique hotels and small designer label shops springing up almost by the minute. Finally, Palermo is generally well serves by Line D (Green Line) of the subte system, which conveniently takes you into the city center, or a little further north to Belgrano. Palermo is great for both families and young couples alike, and is a very popular place for visitors renting a Buenos Aires Apartment.

Go South! – San Telmo and Monserrat

These adjoining areas of Buenos Aires, just south of the Microcentro, are the most ‘historic’ areas of the city. The olde worlde BA, if you like. Here is where Buenos Aires was first founded, and is where some of the few remaining colonial buildings can be found, mixed in with some beautiful art nouveau and gothic styles from the preceding periods, all in a state of atmospheric decaying grandeur. Cobbled streets abound! The rich of BA used to live in San Telmo until a yellow fever outbreak in 1871, when they moved away from the lowland river to their current locatiWhy, if it isn't your typical street in San Telmo or Monserraton in Recoleta. These days, San Telmo is the home to modern Argentine Tango in Buenos Aires, where you will find many Tango shows, clubs, lessons, street performers and even Tango hotels! Sunday in San Telmo’s Plaza Dorrego sees the most famous street market (antiques, tango paraphenalia, etc) here, along with the compulsory outdoor Tango dancers and singers. Adjoining Monserrat has similar architecture, and some of the most interesting churches in the city. However, these areas can be quite dangerous at night, and a little on the dirty side, so please bear that in mind before deciding on a hotel in this more ‘atmospheric’ part of town!

Well, those are the main areas to consider. There are others, but these are where most visitors will consider staying. Please leave a comment if you have any questions about these or other areas of BA. I hope you enjoy wherever you stay!

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This post was written by Alan Patrick on 07-09-2006 - Thanks for reading! 13 Comments »

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13 Responses

  1. Teralinda Says:

    Belgrano!!!

  2. Alan Patrick Says:

    I know…I know….I need to get to Belgrano and some point and take some pictures etc…it will be represented on this blog fairly soon, I promise!

  3. Liv Says:

    I stayed in an apartment in Monserrat and the area was great!!! It is not dangerous at all! In fact, a friend of mine stayed in a hotel in Palermo and she was robbed there! Maybe I was lucky… but I had such a great time!!. I do recomend these neighborhoods!

  4. Della Says:

    Hi how is the area near the Zoo and Botanical garden. I am interested in tango and shopping. Thanks.

    Della

  5. Lucho Says:

    Algo mas tranquilo. Coghlan!!

  6. carache Says:

    I appreciate that you’re planning on writing more about Belgrano, but it sounds like you know quite a bit about it. Could you give a quick thumbs up or thumbs down re whether a first-time visitor would be disappointed staying there? Is it very suburban and off the beaten track, say, like traveling to Manhattan but staying in New Rochelle? Thanks.

  7. julian Says:

    Belgrano is actually a more residential kind of area. It has a very large shopping street, but not much else for tourists to see. You can actually find very busy streets there, but if you move a little far from Cabildo (which is the main street) you can find more laid back areas. It is recommended because it is very close to the subway, and it has much less expensive hotels and rentals than palermo (which has raised to the “fashionable” level by now). The cons is that it is a bit farther away than other barrios, so you will be traveling 30-45 minutes each way, daily.

  8. Edwin Says:

    Don’t forget “Las Cañitas”, a small enclave within Belgrano, bordering Palermo, often considered a barrio in itself. Here you will find the famous Polo Field as well as some of the hippest bars and restaurants in the city. Undoubtedly one of the best areas to base any stay in Bs As.

  9. Ana Says:

    How’s Caballito? I have a friend offering me an apartment (for my vacation)there, but I’m not sure if I should stay there. Would some other barrio be better?

  10. gerry Says:

    HI,Alan. I am very surprissed to know than an English guy is showing the city that I grew up and love.
    I am living in New York for many years and I have some American friends that would like to go there and I will recommend you, because they don’t speak any Spanish. What about you? GERRY

  11. Mark Says:

    Hi!! I’ll come to BA and I need to know the possible areas to consider for an appartment close to catalinas plaza.
    Please give me some ideas and help.
    Many thanks
    Mark

  12. Will Says:

    I am an American who is going to BA to study Spanish, wine, and law for an extended period of time (about a year). I am wondering if someone could suggest a good barrio to live that is both safe, lively, and centrally located. I do not want to travel over an hour everyday. Any suggestion would help, thanks.

  13. Bill Says:

    Caballito is okay–not a ton to see there but moderately safe. Liv-regardless of your experience, montserrat isn’t as safe as the northern barrios. san telmo’s a bit scary at night. it’s no boca, but still for tourists maybe not the best choice.
    Will-Palermo if you can get housing there! it’s great for students!

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