Note from Alan – Sorry once more for the long time since the last posting on this blog – I’ve been crazily busy for the past couple of months with my Buenos Aires Tours. Until I get some more time free to write something myself, here’s a great post from Kim on the Buenos Aires Zoo to keep you going:

It’s all happening at the zoo…

And it really is! The Buenos Aires Zoo is spectacularly charming for anyone with an afternoon to spare. Located in the heart of Palermo off the Plaza Italia subway stop, the zoo spans the distance between Avenidas Las Heras and Libertador. Home to over 350 species and known for some of its exotic breeding, the zoo is the perfect place for families, a romantic date or an afternoon alone.

On sunny weekends this attraction is packed full of children, which isn’t always entirely different from the weekdays, when many school field trips attend. Nevertheless, the best time to visit the zoo is on a sunny weekday afternoon, when you can lounge in front of the white tiger enclosure or elephant house with few others peering over your shoulder.

Buenos Aires Zoo details and entrance prices

The zoo’s entrance is located on the corner of Avenida Las Heras and Avenida Sarmiento. Cost varies depending on what you want to see and how much you want to spend. General Admission (Entrada General) is AR$6.75, which gives you access to most of the zoo. However, there are several exhibits requiring the more advanced pass (Pasaporte), which costs AR$13.50 and gives you access to exhibits such as the Aquarium, Reptiles and Rainforest, as well as the ‘Dragon House’ and a boat ride on the lagoon.

The General pass shouldn’t be overlooked however, as the majority of the zoo is indeed found within the General layout. Meanwhile, the Aquarium has penguins with both fresh and saltwater fish (including piranhas) in large tanks and the reptile area is eerily captivating (especially for the boys). However, if after purchasing the general pass and you find yourself thinking that the Rainforest exhibit looks too good to pass up, an extra AR$3.30 at the entrance to each additional exhibit will grant you entry.

Don’t feed the animals (or do!)

OK, so you have your pass… now, where do you begin? Upon admittance you’ll see a large entrance where you can purchase disposable cameras, snacks and also rent lockers. They also have professional photographers if you want to capture the moment without any blurs or overexposures, which is ideal considering the entrance is next to a picturesque lagoon where flamingos lounge on the far side of the fountains. (Look closely and you’ll also see snapping turtles!)

The entrance area is also an excellent chance to buy some animal food (Comidas Animales) – throughout your journey you’re welcome to feed elephants, alpacas, monkeys, camels, deer, zebras and other feed friendly animals. The food bags are only AR$3.50 and larger bins can be bought for AR$5.50. While you’ll find yourself wondering how it’s possible that all of these different animals eat the same food (maybe save yourself some cash and try it out on the kids… just kidding!), it’s a wonderful way to interact and gain the attention of the more commonly aloof critters. Some of the animals will even play up to the food, with elephants raising their trunks and monkeys motioning for you to throw more.

Some of the enclosures are so close to the animals themselves that sneaking in some petting (while you’re feeding the camel, for instance) isn’t difficult. Naturally, it’s important to be socially conscious of the safety of the animals and yourself, so be mindful when you’re petting the zebra. (I petted a Zebra!) If the kids are complaining that you’ve run out of Comidas Animales, then there are stations located throughout the Zoo where more can be purchased.

Helpful Buenos Aires Zoo Tip:

If the Comidas Animales didn’t go over so well as the kids’ snack, then there are stands where popsicles and other treats can be found. However, like most zoos, these are insanely over priced… so, if you go over to the sides of the zoo (by the fence) you will often find street vendors that will sell you a larger variety at half the price, right through the gaps in the fence! In Buenos Aires, where there’s a will, there’s a way

You are HERE

The layout of the zoo is simple so you don’t have to worry about missing anything. Posted maps along the way indicate your position, but by following the main path you’ll surely see it all. If you’ve taken this zoo-pert’s advice and headed RIGHT upon entry, your first stop will be the polar bears with their large swimming pool and the Aquarium, should you choose to view it.

The elephant house is enormous and the elephants seem to spend most of their time near the perimeters in hopes of catching some snacks purchased by zoo goers. Again the intimacy of the Buenos Aires zoo is spectacular and it’s breathtaking to see these amazing animals up so close.

The zoo is also known for its success in breeding white tigers (see picture below) and these, along with the other large cats (pumas, cheetahs, jaguars and lions) are all in well built enclosures where they’re easy to spot. Each enclosure lists the animal with some basic information for those wishing to educate themselves on the wildlife. Information such as where you can find them in the wild, the types of food they eat (interestingly enough, none mention the Comidas Animales!) and other key characteristics about each inhabitant is listed.

[Photo Credit: Yomatiase under an Attribution 2.0 Generic Licence]

Helpful Buenos Aires Zoo tip:

So you’ve decided to bring the kids and they’re getting rambunctious. The middle of the zoo houses a playground fully equipped with swings and slides for them to exert all that extra energy. The zoo also has two carousels located at the back and far left. The one in the rear is always running and is nearby a rest area with food. It’s a great halfway point and the perfect load off.

Sooooo cute

The region dedicated to Africa is located on the left side of the zoo which again bodes spectacularly intimate views of anything you’d hope to see. This gives way to a petting zoo where at the end of your journey (you’re actually allowed to here!) to pet a family of goats, donkeys and Shetland ponies.

If you haven’t had your fill by this time, take another loop (I did!). Or, if you have, you’re back at the lagoon and ready for home… Once you’re home and realize that house cat of yours isn’t exactly living up to those white tiger cubs, visit the zoo website to see what other activities and adventures the zoo has to offer. This includes information on birthdays, guided tours and other specialized events: www.zoobuenosaires.com.ar (one such specialized event at the moment is night time zoo opening, as Karine from Buenos Aires Weekly recently reported on).

“Someone told me
Its all happening at the zoo.

I do believe it,
I do believe its true.

Its a light and tumble journey
From the east side to the park;
Just a fine and fancy ramble
To the zoo.

But you can take the crosstown bus
If its raining or its cold,
And the animals will love it
If you do.

Somethin’ tells me
Its all happening at the zoo.

The monkeys stand for honesty,
Giraffes are insincere,
And the elephants are kindly but
They’re dumb.
Orangutans are skeptical
Of changes in their cages,
And the zoo keeper is very fond of rum.

Zebras are reactionaries,
Antelopes are missionaries,
Pigeons plot in secrecy,
And hamsters turn on frequently.
What a gas! you gotta come and see
At the zoo.”

[Photo Credit: julianrod]

After a lazy Sunday afternoon spent “domingeando” (as the porteños say) – or in other words, relaxing and walking around the artisan fairs and examining the hand-made crafts and clothing items – head to Malasartes in Plaza Serrano (Palermo Soho) for a warm, welcoming café atmosphere any time of day or evening.

At weekends this focal point of Palermo Soho fills with artisans selling hand-made crafts and sweaters, which are definitely worth an hour of browsing while you are in this area of Buenos Aires.

Relax at Malasartes after a stroll around Palermo Soho or before a night of bar-hopping

Malasartes stands out among the other cafes and restaurants in the plaza for its warm atmosphere, inviting décor, and decent bistro-style food. It’s usually filled with locals and tourists who are shopping at the Palermo Soho boutiques, afternoon lunchers enjoying the healthy salads and hot meals, and bloggers like myself sipping on coffee and taking advantage of the wireless internet connection.

The café is located right on the intersection known as Plaza Serrano, which is officially named Plaza Julio Cortazar. It opens at 8am for breakfast, and goes until 2am, when you’ll finish off your last Fernet-Cola and head to a club in Palermo Soho or nearby Palermo Hollywood.

Warm and inviting décor while you sip coffee and chat with a friend

You walk into Malasartes and gaze up at the high ceilings and brick-lined walls, and these almost give you the impression of having entered a fireplace, looking up into a chimney. The place has plenty of sitting room: it’s got two floors, with a few couches and comfortable chairs on the first floor in the back. The bar plays low-key music as an underscore to the hum of conversations being held over food or drinks. If the weather is nice, the bar has tables on the sidewalk outside, where you can observe the colorful passersby that frequent this trendy sector of Palermo.

Malasartes goes along with the traditional porteño pace of life, which is to say that your server will be in no hurry at all to greet you, bring you a menu, or take your order. So, just relax, look around at the interesting mix of people, grab a newspaper or magazine from the bar, and settle in for a nice…. looonnggg… wait.

Bistro style food with simple ingredients and hearty portions

If you are pretty hungry, you might be interested in the fixed lunch menu, which is around $18 or $20 pesos and offers a main dish with something to drink and a post-meal espresso. Some of the kitchen’s offerings are pretty creative, such as tuna and mozzarella crepes, roasted rabbit, garlicky chicken with potatoes, or blackened trout with mixed grilled vegetables. You can also find more traditional porteña dishes such as bife de lomo, milanesa, ricotta-stuffed canneloni topped with tomato sauce and melted mozzarella, and barbequed pork with a side of sweet potatoes.

For a healthy but delicious treat, try the warm grilled chicken salad, served with fresh lettuce and cherry tomatoes. Malasartes won’t let you leave hungry after a meal; they serve up generous portions of their hot dishes and their sandwiches are also stuffed with plenty of meat, cheese, and toppings.

Malasartes – a place to be, see, and be seen

The couches in the back are the loungers’ spot at Malasartes. If you come bearing a laptop, sketchbook, journal, chess set, or anything else that might generate conversation, you’ll probably end up making friends with someone sitting nearby you. Most likely it will be a traveler or expatriate filled with the energy of being in Buenos Aires. It’s a good moment to chat about the newest thing you’ve discovered in the city or how many times you’ve almost been run over in the past week.

You can easily cruise through an afternoon just hanging out at Malasartes, nibbling and sipping, chatting and watching, writing and dreaming. The tasteful and uncluttered decoration provide a warm environment to experience leisure time in Capital Federal, and the action of Plaza Serrano around you supplies Malasartes an interesting mix of clientèle.

[Photo Credit: julianrod]

But if you’re looking for fast service, you’ll have to go somewhere else. Cafes such as Malasartes are where you go when you don’t want to be rushed, and the servers will be friendly but still pretty damn slow to attend to you. When you need the bill, you’ll probably have to wave and call the waiter a few times – but hey, nobody comes to Buenos Aires to be rushed. Just relax, and enjoy the flow.

[Alan's "interesting" observation - try walking out of one of these cafes in Buenos Aires without paying the bill and you'll soon notice a fast change of pace from your waiter!]

Malasartes: The Verdict

• Overall cafe rating: (3/5) If I had to describe Malasartes as a person, it would be your cheery, good-humored friend who you can always count on to give you a laugh and make you feel energized.
• Buenos Aires Authenticity Factor: (3/5) Malasartes is an example of modern Buenos Aires café culture. The building itself is a wonderful renovation of an old-fashioned structure.
• Value: (4/5) Considering the prime location in Plaza Serrano, they could charge a good deal more for their offerings. And the WIFI is free too (when it is working!)

Buenos Aires Argentina Guide Special Tip

Got an afternoon free? Grab a sketchbook, laptop, or your creative tool of choice, and venture into Malasartes by yourself. You will be inspired by the ebb and flow of people in the well-lit, tastefully decorated space.

Dancing Tango in the Confiteria Ideal, Buenos Aires [Photo credit: Gerrysan]

Note from Alan – We are lucky enough to welcome a seasoned Buenos Aires tango and milonga expert to the Buenos Aires Argentina Guide, in the form of Cherie Magnus, from the Tango Cherie blog (see the end of this post for more info on Cherie). Her first offering is an excellent guide to the types of tango salon in Buenos Aires, for those interested in the real world of social tango dancing in the city. So, over to you Cherie…

If you want to dance tango in Buenos Aires, where do you go?

Actually it depends on many things: your age, what style you dance, what day or night of the week you want to go out, if you go with or without a partner, and so on…

Dancing social tango in Buenos Aires has nothing to do with the Tango Show Dancing on the streets of San Telmo, La Boca, calle Florida, or Recoleta, or the many Tango Cena-Shows with an orchestra, stage dancers and dinner. The first thing to know about tango is that what you’ll see in those places is a different dance – Tango for Export. And that is another post entirely!

Experience Authentic Social Tango in Buenos Aires

If you want to experience authentic social tango, you really need to know the best places for you to go to watch and dance. You could pick up one of the many free tango publications from shoe salons and hotels which list all of the milongas (places to dance social tango), but unless you have lots of time and money to explore each one, you can’t tell which is right for you. And that’s why Ruben & Cherie (as well as other bilingual local dancers) provide a service to help tango tourists get the most out of their visits to Buenos Aires. They know where you can have the most fun and how to break the codigos, and will even take you there themselves.

If you are interested in their tango services, you can contact Ruben & Cherie using the following details:

• Email: BsAsMilonga@aol.com
• Telephone: 4932-5027 (from within Buenos Aires)
• Blog: Tango Cherie

Click here to view the embedded video.

Types of Tango Salon in Buenos Aires

First, a tip: when checking where to go to mingle with the locals in Buenos Aires on the dance floor, remember that dances in the same salon vary greatly depending on the organizer, day of the week, time of day etc. In other words, every milonga at Region Leonesa or Canning will not be the same.

The following is a general break-down of the different types of places to dance tango in Buenos Aires, with some examples of each…

Salon de Baile

A formal atmosphere especially for dancing, with predominantly elegant attire, tables with tablecloths, uniformed waiters, tango codes are strictly respected, professional DJs play tango, vals and milonga music of the 1930’s-50’s, often with tandas of Latin and Jazz music. The public here is older (50-80) with an intermediate to high level of dancing in the close-embrace milonguero style. Women and men sit on opposite sides of the salon and use the cabaceo. The afternoon milongas tend to be more formal and traditional than the late night dances.

Examples in Buenos Aires: El Arranque, Gricel, Salon Canning, Viejo Correo, Los Consegrados, Maipu 444, Lo de Celia, El Beso, Chique.

Confiteria bailable

This old-fashioned type of salon has many of the same characteristics of the Salons de Baile, but also has a restaurant. The public is more varied, with lots of groups. The only example today is the Confiteria Ideal, which is famous for its long life and its architecture. Nowadays only a few Salons de Baile have restaurants, such as Nino Bien and El Beso, but they are milongas first, and only very few of the clients order food from the kitchen.

Club de Barrio

The dance floors are cement basketball courts or the club restaurant. Meals are usually available. Predominantly attended by the neighborhood families and older married couples; the music includes tango, jazz and tropical.

Examples in Buenos Aires: Sin Rumbo, Los Bohemios, Sunderland, Club Chicago.

Baile Joven

Informal atmosphere, young public (18-30), variety of casual dress, often with live music and dance exhibitions. More relaxed standards, a more diverse level of dancing, and more salon-style than close embrace. You will hear the music of Piazzolla, some rock ‘n’ roll, as well as salsa and cumbia.

Examples in Buenos Aires: La Estrella, La Viruta, Parakultural.

Aire Libre

Outdoor milongas that attract a wide variety of dancers.

Examples in Buenos Aires: La Glorieta and Plaza Dorrego (year round) and La Calesita (in summer).

An Aire Libre milonga in Plaza Dorrego, San Telmo [Photo credit: nyluke]

Practicas

Informal, bare-bones ambiance, no professional DJ.

Examples in Buenos Aires: Cochabamba 444, El Motivo, Tangocool, Soho Tango.

Gay Milongas

Informal, relaxed atmosphere, anybody can dance with anybody, alternative music along with the classics.

Examples in Buenos Aires: La Marshall, TangoQueer.

Coming soon from Cherie – reviews of different tango milongas around Buenos Aires…

About Cherie Magnus

Cherie Magnus is a published travel writer and dance critic from Los Angeles, and an expat tango dancer and teacher in Buenos Aires since 2003. She and her Argentine partner Ruben Aybar also do bilingual Tango Tours. Last year they were finalists in the Campeonato Metropolitano de Tango de Buenos Aires. She’s working on a memoir, The Church of Tango, and one of her pieces is included in a soon-to-be-published anthology on San Miguel de Allende. You can read more on her blog, TangoCherie.

Jazz in Buenos Aires at Thelonious Club

If you are looking to spend a night in a setting of utmost Buenos Aires cool, check out the famed Palermo jazz club, Thelonious. This bar features live jazz bands Wednesday through Sunday nights, starting at 9:30 pm. On Friday and Saturday nights there are two bands in the line-up. Thelonious, named after the legendary American jazz pianist, is not a place to hear second-rate jazz. The performance on any given night will enrapture you with the energy, talent, and improvisational skills of the musicians.

Cover fees range from $7 to $15 depending on the night: you can check their website, call for more information about that night’s particular show (4829-1562), or stop by Thelonious to pick up the current month’s schedule.

Reserve a table for a night of elegance and spectacular jazz

In order to make sure you have a space to sit and view the musicians, you should call ahead and reserve a table. They will hold it for you until 9:30pm, when the music is supposed to start (I say “supposed to” because this is Argentina and nothing starts exactly on time).

If you come with a date, you’ll get a cozy table for two; bigger groups get couches and coffee tables; otherwise you can pull up a stool at the bar or even hang out on the stairs leading to the upper level. The place is small, so get there early if you don’t have a reservation. Your experience will be much more enjoyable if you have a seat, as the jazz sets are often quite long (an hour and a half on average).

Sip on a cool cocktail in the color of your choice

Located in a fairly posh part of Palermo, near Plaza Guemes and its lovely Our Lady of Guadalupe church, Thelonious club is usually packed with smartly-dressed Buenos Aires hipsters, old-school jazz fans, and foreigners visiting the city. It’s okay to be casual, but if you are looking for somewhere to show off your trendy new Palermo boutique finds, this is the place.

Everybody checks each other out, wondering who is going to be having drinks with the band after the show. So make sure you order a fashionable drink, like the local-standard Fernet and coke (AR$11), or one of Thelonious’ colorful cocktails, such as a daquiri (AR$13, made with fresh lemon), or a frozen mojito ($13, bright green due to the blended mint leaves).

Thelonious offers a very complete list of cocktails, and some creative ones, like the Keith Richards: vodka, lemon, and sugar (AR$13). Of course, if you are on a budget, be glad that you are in Argentina and you can share a bottle of El Portillo Malbec with some friends for AR$24, or a Lat 33 for AR$27. To impress your date go for one of the Salentein Robles (AR$53). And if you’re just a regular beer guy, grab a bottle of Heineken (AR$8) or Guinness (AR$10).

Thelonious, a recycled building decorated with a special touch

The atmosphere alone at Thelonious is reason enough to stop by. As with many modern restaurants and bars in Buenos Aires, Thelonious is a “recycled” rendition of an old house. One special feature of Palermo architecture that you will see at this club is the bare brick ceilings. Above the stage hangs a light fixture consisting of subdued yellow light bulbs twisted every which way like an unruly nest of wires.

The place is designed to be a live music venue, with low-wattage spot lighting placed strategically around the premises. The sturdy bar seems to be made of adobe, and it has built-in lights that cast a glow on the face of your date as he or she absorbs the frenetic bleeps and bloops of the trumpet or the whirring drum rhythms.

Whatever act is on at Thelonious, you can be assured that it’s a respected, nationally or even internationally acclaimed group of artists who dedicate themselves to their instruments. Depending on the artist, the songs may be original compositions with influences from classical jazz, modern rock, and Latin American musical genres, or they might be renditions of standards from the likes of John Coltrane and Dizzy Gillespie. The late-night bands on Fridays and Saturdays are more the dance-and-groove types, while the weekday night bands are better for listening and watching attentively.

Worth an after-dinner visit, for an evening of musical bliss

Even if you aren’t a jazz aficionado, Thelonious Club is pretty much sure to guarantee a unique and interesting evening. The service is not especially warm but it is certainly professional and efficient. It’s best to eat before the show (or after, at the café on the corner of Salguero, which is open late), but if you come hungry, you can order simple pizzetas for between AR$10 and AR$12, or a cheese plate (tabla de quesos) for AR$15.

Thelonious also offers desserts, making it a great place to bring your date after an early dinner. Try their gooey chocolate brownie with walnuts and vanilla ice cream (AR$12), or simply a coffee or tea (AR$3). Possibly one of the best after-dinner drink choices on the menu is the Irish coffee, which is affordable (AR$7) and deliciously sweet with a kick of liquor. Or for an even more elegant dessert, cozy up to a bottle of Chandon champagne (AR$48) to enjoy the jazz in true style.

A place like Club Thelonious could exist in any fashionable international city: New York, London, or Paris. But in the tastefully decorated upstairs space of Thelonious, surrounded by eclectic people from all over the world, sipping Malbec with good company, you will be glad you are watching a jazz show in Buenos Aires.

Buenos Aires Argentina Guide Special Tip

To repeat, to avoid disappointment at the small, usually packed Thelonious Jazz Club, make sure you reserve a table ahead or get there early – definitely before 9pm. That way you won’t miss out on an excellent night of cool jazz grooves in Buenos Aires.

If you consider yourself a hipster, an intellectual, an artist, or just too cool for categorization, come join the club at El Taller. This multiespacio – a word used in Buenos Aires to describe a multi-functional space – in this case with a bar, café, art space, and discussion salon, was one of the first businesses to appear in Plaza Serrano in the mid-1980s.

El Taller has made beautiful use of the building by carefully placing framed artwork all over the walls. You could spend an hour just gazing at the art, taking in each piece separately and letting yourself be inspired or intrigued by the various Argentine artists. The bar is open from 9am to 2am Mondays through Thursdays; and until 3am on Fridays, Saturdays, and holidays [and in case you didn't know, in Argentina there's a holiday every, oh, two weeks ].

An activity for every kind of creative urge at El Taller

El Taller translates as “the workshop”, and the bar is so named because it offers various classes, seminars, and clubs in this space. On Monday nights there is a philosophy club, on Saturday early afternoons there is a yoga class, and they also have various theater workshops.

Stop by the place or give them a call (4831-5501 from within Buenos Aires) to inquire about what ongoing activities there are at the moment. Or if you yourself are an artist or intellectual, why not contact them to see if you can offer a class? This would be a great place to really experience porteño culture, if you speak Spanish. Hear and join in with the philosophy discussion in order to get the scoop on what intellectuals in one of the world’s biggest, most dynamic metropolises have to say about the meaning of life.

Kick back with some booze or a coffee, or grab a bite

If you’re looking for a peaceful café to relax in, El Taller is just the spot. The wall art and wide spaces with high ceilings create a calming feeling as you sip coffee, beer, wine, or a cocktail.

The drink prices are not so bad compared to other places in Plaza Serrano or Palermo Soho in general: a chopp (small mug) of Argentine beer will run you AR$5.50; glasses of wine can be as low as AR$4.50 and bottles as low as AR$10. Meanwhile, colorful cocktails are AR$8.50 and upward, and for those that like to keep a clear head during heated philosophical debates, coffees come in between AR$3 and AR$5.

El Taller is probably best for visiting with friends over drinks or some light picadas (platters of ham, cheese, olives etc), but if you are hungry the kitchen offers Argentine standards such as pastas, crepes, pizzas, lomitos (thin lomo steak sandwiches), salads with plenty of fresh vegetables, omelettes, chicken sandwiches, and hamburgers (with a few different bread options). All pretty run-of-the-mill, decent fare.

Join some friendly and eclectic people for an afternoon snack or lunch

The service at El Taller is pretty punctual, but far removed from what you might find in some corporate restaurant. The staff is friendly and energetic and happy to tell you about the various workshops and classes going on, or to give you guidance with the menu.

To sum up, El Taller is a great showcase of current intellectual and artistic trends in Buenos Aires, one of the cultural capitals of the world. It is a great place to visit just once, or to become a regular, depending on what your interests are. Whether you come to the city with friends, significant others, or family, you will find that it is worth a visit to this Plaza Serrano favorite just to absorb the atmosphere and observe the diverse clientèle.

El Taller: The Verdict

• Overall cafe rating: (3/5) This is a great place to have a drink on your way to dinner or spend an afternoon writing in a journal. However, the activities offered by El Taller are probably going to appeal more to long-term visitors to Buenos Aires, expats, or locals.
• Buenos Aires Authenticity Factor: (3/5) El Taller is one of the oldest cafes in the plaza, and it represents the cultural revolution that has been taking place in modern-day Buenos Aires.
• Value: (4/5) For the location and the beautiful décor, this café is worth spending some time and money getting to know it – but remember this is Plaza Serrano, a tourist hotspot, so don’t expect bargain prices.

Buenos Aires Argentina Guide Special Tip

Make your trip to El Taller into a day outing at weekends when the plaza filled with artisans displaying their hand-made crafts. You can wander around Plaza Serrano for an hour or two and then rejuvenate with a coffee and some medialunas at El Taller, before wandering more among the shops and boutiques of Palermo Viejo.

[Hours of operation: Monday to Thursday - 12am to 10pm; Friday - 10am to 11pm; Saturday - 11am to 11pm; Sundays and holidays - 2pm to 10pm]

Buenos Aires, a city of book lovers

As one of the most literate cities on the planet, Buenos Aires will not disappoint a book lover. You can spend hours just browsing through the stacks and shelves of novels, academic theses, art and photography collections, and poetry anthologies in shops across the city here. Of course Buenos Aires is best for book-shopping if you read Spanish, or don’t mind captions in Spanish, but most places do also have an English-language selection.

One very attractive and alluring bookstore in Buenos Aires is the Boutique del Libro, a combined bookshop and café tucked away in the atmospheric streets of Palermo Soho.

Indulge the bookworm inside you at Boutique del Libro

Boutique del Libro is the kind of bookstore that makes you hold your breath in awe as you walk past the shelves full of enough books to satisfy any intellectual thirst. If you want to find art, photography, or design collections, especially ones that are specific to Argentina, this is a great place to look. Boutique del Libro also boasts a pretty decent collection of English-language classics and new novels, which are located by the front window. They also have a small collection of CDs by Argentine and international musicians.

The bookstore staff are friendly and happy to point you in the right direction to help you find a book. Everything is well-labeled by section, so you can always just go straight to a specific category and peruse. The bookstore is usually filled with foreigners and locals alike, enjoying the atmosphere and lounging around in the café.

Look cool and smart with a novel by Borges or Isabel Allende

The café is an ideal spot for quiet reflection with a recently-purchased book, or if you need to get some studying done. There is free wireless internet so you can read your emails in this high-ceilinged, spacious area. The décor is tasteful: large white-and-beige modern style paintings adorn the muted walls, and the furniture is a mix of antique low-slung patio chairs and sturdy wooden seats. Each table is creatively topped by a miniature cactus plant.

You’ll find yourself among people happily lost in a novel, or in thought, or in their studies, and maybe even a few smokers, although the city has supposedly outlawed smoking in public establishments.

Maybe just a coffee or tea in the café: it’s better for mood than food

If you’re on a budget, it’s probably best not to come to Palermo Soho hungry, because by Argentine standards places like Boutique del Libro are overcharging for their food and drinks. The Boutique offers standard fare such as steak sandwiches, salads, baked chicken, hamburgers, and tostadas, which are grilled-cheese sandwiches (usually jamon y queso – ham and cheese). It’s got an espresso bar and alcoholic drinks.

Boutique del Libro is actually a chain in Argentina, but the Palermo location has a special air of sophistication that is worth checking out. If you are a book lover you will understand the aura that radiates from a really good bookstore. Come here just to see the place and admire the simple decoration in the café, or to get some reading material in either Spanish or English. And while you’re in the area, across the way you’ll also find a very cool store called Objetos Encontrados, full of interesting antiques, toys and other random stuff.

So, in an afternoon of strolling or shopping in Palermo Soho, it’s definitely worth your time to visit Boutique del Libro, even if just for a look or a quick coffee with some cookies. And if you are actually in the market for books, you’ll almost certainly enjoy the variety of their selection – however, be warned that, in addition to their expensive food and drinks, Boutique del Libro also overcharge quite a bit for their books.

Buenos Aires Argentina Guide Special Tip

If you come to Buenos Aires seeking Hemingway-style inspiration, grab your quill and paper… errr, I mean, Macbook… and park yourself in the Boutique del Libro’s café. Surely the dual aroma of coffee and fresh books will produce a stirring urge to write that novel of your dreams.

07-07-07 A CALENTAR/HEAT IT UP Kick-Off Party Éste Sábado!!!

This weekend I invite you and your friends to: Live Bossanova music, cheap drinks and dancing at the fabulous Casa de Niko in Palermo.

When: Saturday, July 7th
Where: Darwin 1154, PB 14 (Palermo – near Córdoba)
10 pm: Live Bossanova Music
11 pm: Live DJ – hip/hop, electro
Cover: 5 pesos
Drinks: 3 pesos – beer and mixed drinks
ALL PROFITS GO TO CHARITY

This is a Kick-Off party for PROYECTO A CALENTAR CONVIVEN – a project to raise 5,000 pesos in 3 months to get a heating system installed at Centro Conviven (http://www.conviven.org.ar/) – a cultural center in Mataderos dedicated to helping disadvantaged kids and their families stay off the streets by offering educational and cultural activities and providing a healthy, safe environment. They NEED heat, and we like to party – so let’s make it happen!

Bring your friends and come HEAT IT UP FOR CONVIVEN!

THANKS!!!

(Read on for invitation in Spanish)

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Éste fin de sémana les invito a: Música Bossanova en vivo, tragos baratos y bailando!

Cuando: Sábado el 7 de Julio
Donde: Darwin 1154 PB 14 (Palermo – cerca de Córdoba)
10 pm: Música Bossanova en Vivo
11 pm: DJ en Vivo – hip/hop, electro
5 pesos a la puerta
Bebidas 3 pesos
TODOS BENEFICIOS SE CONTRIBUYEN A LA CARIDAD

Les trajemos una fiesta de inaugeración para el PROYECTO A CALENTAR CONVIVEN – un proyecto que quiere juntar 5.000 pesos en 3 meses para conseguir un sistema de calefacción por el Centro Conviven (http://www.conviven.org.ar/) – un centro cultural dedicado a ayudar a jovenes perjudicados y sus familias, y sacarles de la calle- CONVIVEN ofrecece actividades educativas y culturales y un ambiente sano y seguro para mucha gente, pero necesitan calefacción! Y nosotros necesitamos una fiesta, así que lo podemos alcanzar a la vez!

Inviten a tus amigos y vengan A CALENTAR PARA CONVIVEN!

GRACIAS!!!

[Note from Alan: Again, as with the Tango stuff, it's great to have Rachel here on the blogging team to help review some shops in Buenos Aires, because this really isn't an area of expertise for me. I'll just stick to writing the beer, food and ice cream reviews, thanks. Know your weaknesses! ]

Objetos Encontrados – “Found Objects” in Buenos Aires

One of the pleasures of wandering through the streets of Buenos Aires is you often happen upon a store that is entirely unique to the city, a place that shows the culture’s love for antiquities, trinkets, and anything made by Argentine hands. Objetos Encontrados, in Palermo Viejo / Palermo Soho, is one of these such shops.

It’s a fun place to gaze at the various toys, games, art pieces, and household items that are very much part of the city’s history. Perhaps the porteño obsession with collecting such items has something to do with nostalgia for better days in the city, when things were more stable and prosperous.

Check this shop out if you’re in the Plaza Serrano area

Objetos Encontrados is not a big place, but it’s worth stopping in if you are nearby Plaza Serrano or happen to be popping in for coffee or a book across the road at the Boutique del Libro. There’s a great atmosphere in the shop, like you have entered the toy chest of some eclectic porteño child.

The shopkeeper is an intense, extremely friendly collector and artist named Hernan. Ask him about his personal photography work, or just chat with him about politics in Argentina and life in Palermo as he twists some scrap of metal into an artistic creation. Usually there are a couple of guys hanging out with him, drinking maté or playing guitar, and chatting.

HERNAN: THE KIND OF GUY WHO DOESN’T NEED PHONE CABLES

Antiques and toys with a creative twist make a fun visit

If you notice some similarities between the selection at Objetos Encontrados and the Sunday morning fairs around the city, your perceptions are correct. Hernan goes around to antique sales and finds cool things to bring back to re-sell in his shop.

So why go to his shop if you can find the same things at the markets?

Well, for me it’s really interesting to see how people create businesses in Buenos Aires, in a country with a lot of creativity but perhaps not so many options for innovation. Hernan’s shop is a great example of an artistic impulse that has transformed a space into a business. He has made the “found objects” into an attractive display that makes you feel like you are in a doll house or a museum of artifacts from Buenos Aires’ past. And, it all makes for some pretty cool photos:

In many ways, a lot of the stuff at Objetos Encontrados is pretty damn kitsch. Either you’ll love that or hate it: if it’s the former, then consider paying a visit to this shop next time you’re wandering around the streets of Palermo Soho.

Out of the very few strict life rules that I subscribe to, the most important happens to be: “when in Buenos Aires, if a man gives you some delicious cookies for free, you must write about them on your blog”. My dear old grandmother used to say this when I was a child sat on her knee back in the mid-1980s. A magnificent woman, and clearly a technological visionary to boot. However, hard as she tried, she was unable to knock out of me this annoying tendency I have for making ridiculous things up.

And so, this post. Read on for more cookies and assorted photo silliness.

Sugar and Spice cookies: a great sweet snack in Buenos Aires

I have to say that [disclaimer aside: Frank gave me free cookies yesterday at the bloggers event held in his new Palermo Hollywood store/bakery, but these are still my honest opinions] Sugar and Spice makes some fantastically delicious cookies and cakes. I admit that I have been unable to try them all (annoyingly I am allergic to nuts, to go along with my fish / seafood allergy), but those that I did were all extremely tasty, and a perfect accompaniment to a cup of tea or coffee (anything but La Virginia, mind you).

Being a chocolate addict, my runaway Sugar and Spice favorites are their “passion for chocolate” cookies and “super chocolate” budin (cake), but I also really enjoyed the raisin and oatmeal cookies and, from their savory range of biscuits, the copetin fugazza (a biscuit flavored like fugazza, an Italian/Argentine pizza with no cheese or sauce – just the dough with onions, olive oil and oregano). Great stuff – thanks Frank!

CAUGHT WITH HAND IN COOKIE JAR [I'LL NEVER MAKE A HAND MODEL]

Meeting other Buenos Aires bloggers

As ever, it was very nice to meet some other Buenos Aires bloggers at the event. And as bloggers have a habit of doing, most of them have already written about it: Nathan, Diva, Dalila and Marce, for starters. I had already met Nathan, Diva, and Frank himself, but it was great to see them again, and also meet all of Dalila, Marce, Tango Cherie and Stefan (of BA Insider magazine) for the very first time.

Personally, I would like to have more of these blogger events, because they make us feel loved and important. And if there is free food on offer, all the better. Invitations are welcome. Are you listening, all you Buenos Aires businesses out there, in need of good PR?

A MEETING OF MINDS SUCH AS BUENOS AIRES HAS NEVER WITNESSED

Much fun (and cookies) was had by all. But fret not, if you are in Buenos Aires and feeling left out of the cookie inner circle, you too can still be a part of it. Sugar and Spice biscuits and cookies are, I believe, available in the following fine Buenos Aires establishments (Frank, correct me if I’m wrong on any of these)…

Shops

• Sugar and Spice, Guatemala 5415, Palermo Hollywood
• Falabella (two outlets along Florida shopping street in the city center)
• Al queso, queso (outlets all over the city)

Cafes and Ice Cream Parlors (each with outlets all over the city)

• Aroma cafe
• McDonald’s McCafe
• The Coffee Store
• Freddo
• Munchis

Direct Orders: Sugar and Spice Contact details

• Telephone: 4777-5423 (from within Buenos Aires)
• Email: pedidos@sugarandspice.com.ar
• Website: www.sugarandspice.com.ar

Tell Frank that Alan sent you. Maybe I’ll get some more free cookies out of it

MORE COOKIE/FROG THEFT? DIVA SAYS: “NOT ON MY WATCH, SON”

Fear not, you didn’t miss the news about a new transatlantic bridge from Argentina to England. Let’s face it, structural considerations aside, it’ll never happen

So, if there isn’t a running bus route from Palermo to Islington, then what’s a traditional old red double-decker London bus doing in Palermo, Buenos Aires, of all places? Read on…

No, I have no idea either!

To be honest, I haven’t the foggiest idea what it’s doing here, or how it came to cross the Atlantic.

One quick phone call later, to the cellphone number posted on the side of the bus (it’s for sale), and basically I’m still none the wiser. The guy on the other end said it’s been in Buenos Aires for many years, since before he joined the company that’s now selling it (so he didn’t know too much about it’s background). All he could really tell me was that during its time in Buenos Aires it has mostly been used for filming adverts or movies that need to look like they are set in London, and for other assorted events. All I can add myself is that it must have cost an arm and a leg to import here, that’s for sure.

London Bus for Sale in Buenos Aires

In fact, it will cost you more than a few arms and a few legs if you wish to purchase this fine specimen of British automotive history. Hand over 110,000 pesos (about US$37,000, or approximately 18,500 of the Queen’s British Pounds), and you can drive it away today. Just think of the fun you could have racing it against the crazy colectivos in Buenos Aires.

In case there really are any interested parties out there, you can call 15-5181-8666 to make an inquiry.

And if you just want to go and take a look at this rather surreal Buenos Aires sight, it can be found just around the corner from the American embassy building, next to Plaza Int. Seeber, in the Palermo parks (just across from the number 37 bus stop – the Buenos Aires number 37, that is).

But if you actually go and have a look, whatever you do, don’t even think of getting on this piece of private property and making silly poses for the purpose of a photo opportunity. That would be just downright inappropriate. Ahem.