NEW UPDATE: At long last, the Teatro Colon reopened its doors, as expected, on the 25th May 2010. Tickets are now available either at their ticket office, or buying online through TUENTRADA.COM using the following link: Buy Teatro Colon Tickets Online Here for Opera, Ballet and other Concerts (after purchase you will still need to collect the tickets from the ticket office between 2 hours before and 30 minutes before the scheduled start of the show).

[Note from Alan: Updated this post to reflect the change in the expected re-opening date for the Colon Theatre - now due for 25th May 2010 - as I know a lot of people read this post and I don't want to mislead people due to outdated material]

(Original post written October 25th 2006)

Earlier this week I finally took the opportunity to take in a performance at the Teatro Colon (Colon Theater) which many say is the ‘jewel in the crown’ of Buenos Aires, as one of the most famous opera houses in the world.

I was prompted to get along to the Colon by the fact that it is closing for reconstruction work at the end of October 2006, with plans to reopen on May 25, 2010, on the 200th anniversary of the May Revolution, when Argentina split from the Spanish to become an independent nation.

A long wait until the re-opening, and that’s IF the works are actually completed in time. Knowing Argentina, I would be extremely suprised if things go according to plan!

[Further edit: I was right here! The works have indeed been delayed for 2 years, as the original reopening date was supposed to be 25th May 2008. Who knows if they will even make it for 2010! ]

The Concert

We saw a concert from the ‘Camerata Bariloche’ orchestra, playing pieces from Strauss and Beethoven, which was all very pleasing to the ears (I have to admit i’m far from being classical music fan), but the star of the show was of course the venue itself, which is resplendent in its rich scarlet and gold decoration, along with several forests worth of beautiful wooden construction that make up the auditorium, with hints of Italian, Greek, German and French Renaissance design. It’s all very impressive when you are looking down, way, way down, from above, in the ‘Paradise’ (‘Paraiso’ – the 7th and final seating level) area, which cost but a mere 10 pesos a seat or 5 pesos to stand (yes, I bought the cheapest tickets in the house – just don’t let my girlfriend find out).

For the record, I turned up in smart shoes, trousers, a shirt and tie, taking note of the dress code I saw in the ticket office earlier that day. I was easily the most over dressed person in the ‘Paraiso’ area – but in the more expensive areas I did see some well dressed ladies and gentleman. I think in reality you could go along dressed as you please – I saw quite a few people in jeans and t shirts.

Some Teatro Colon History

The famous venue is not without some interesting history. It opened in 1908, almost 20 years after the first cornerstone was laid in 1889, under the direction of architect Francesco Tamburini. You might understand why I suggested the current restorations may not be completed on time when I tell you that the theatre was originally due to be opened in 1892! But to be fair, a series of tragedies did complicate the process. Tamburini died soon after construction started, and his friend Vittorio Meano took over the project. Who also promptly died (murdered in a love triangle ‘gone wrong’ – though actually I’m not sure if there are many love triangles that ‘go right’). The architects were followed to the grave by another Italian guy, Angelo Ferrari (assassinated), that had been partly funding the building works. Italians dropping like flies…

Fortunately, a Belgian, Julio Dormal, came in and finished the job, breathing a sigh of relief as the finishing touches were made without event. This further confirmed my feeling that Belgians are in fact some of the greatest people on this planet, not only producing the best beer in the world and some of the finest chocolate, but also bucking architectural death trends without batting an eyelid. And that’s not to mention the waffles! I drink to Dormal and his kind whenever I can (sadly no Belgian beer) inside another of his many BA constructions, the Confiteria Richmond cafe, on pedestrian Florida Street (near Lavalle).

The Colon Finally Opens…

But back to the theatre. It finally opened on 25 May 1908 with a performance of Verdi’s Aida, and never looked back, as it became one of the world’s premiere centers of opera. Over the years the Teatro Colon has hosted such musical greats as Italian conductor Arturo Toscanini, French opera singer Jane Bathori, Italian tenor Enrico Caruso, Greek soprano Maria Callas, fatty Luciano Pavarotti, Argentine Tango bandoneon maestro Astor Piazzolla and even Weird Al Yankovic. OK, I made that last one up, but it would have been interesting.

Previous Colon Theater

There was actually a Colon theatre before the current one, as noted recently by Jeff Barry in his blog (he will soon be posting more on the Colon, probably far more coherently than I am doing right now). It had opened in 1857 on the edge of Plaza de Mayo, and served the porteno aristocracy well for a good many years until the current Colon was opened. These days the old building houses the Banco de la Nacion – the national bank of Argentina, an imposing structure that looks down upon the tourists that buzz round the Pink House.

Perfect Acoustics

The current theatre, located in Buenos Aires City Center (more or less in Tribunales) and visible from Avenue 9 de Julio, has virtually perfect acoustics. This is one of its main attractions, the sound reaching each and every audience member perfectly – so you can be a cheapskate like me and still enjoy the concert, even if the orchestra do look like musical ants from the loftier vantage points. If that doesn’t sound like a nice visual experience, you can always take in the music while staring at the beautiful surroundings, such as the decoration around the top of the stage, the huge, dazzling chandelier, or the ceiling frescoes that surround it. Though sadly the latter are not original, due to damage caused by damp in the 1930s. Instead they were painted in 1966 by famous Argentine muralist Raul Soldi, whose work can also be found on the ceiling of the wonderful Galerias Pacifico shopping center, again on Florida street (corner of Cordoba).

Teatro Colon Verdict

All in all, I very much recommend that any visitor to Buenos Aires pays a visit to the Teatro Colon – but unfortunately you will have to wait until May 25, 2008, or perhaps even longer, to see this attraction. However, it is probably worth the wait. In the meantime, if it is the classical music you are after, the Colon is continuing to put shows on in other venues across Buenos Aires during the closure. These mainly seem like they will be held in the Luna Park sports/concert venue, which though not without an interesting history of its own (the place where Peron and Evita 1st met, the funeral of Carlos Gardel and, err…, a Liza Minelli concert), is really not much more than a glorified warehouse.

Anyway, the Teatro Colon is still there to look at from the outside, and that’s not such a bad view in itelf…

For more detailed information on the Teatro Colon, and pictures that are far better and more varied than mine, check out the history section of the official Colon website. And of course, Wikipedia is always good. To contact the Teatro Colon, you can phone them using the following number: (54-11) 4378-7344.

Learn to play the guitar in Buenos Aires!

Occasionally I like to give a shameless plug to one of my friends in Buenos Aires that I think has a service potentially of interest to tourists and expats here. This is one such post.

My friend Cristian is a kick-ass guitar player. I’ve played with him and seen him live before, and both times left me feeling (in true Wayne’s World style) “I am not worthy”. So, I’m sure his lessons will be an excellent option for budding guitarists here in Buenos Aires, who want to learn from an expert musician.

Keep reading for more info (in Cristian’s own words), details and prices…

Over to you, Cristian:

“Description of guitar classes:

We talk about the student’s needs, expectations for the class, music they like to play and learn (whether it’s rock, folk, blues, electronic, or other types), etc. I design each course plan specially for each student. Also, I email them exercises that they can practice at home. It’s great because music is in their minds all the time… not just the 2 hours that they are in class with me.”

“I am in constant contact with my students; I want them to contact me if they have a question or want more exercises to do. I have good material that I also use in my class….”bases” like drums, bass, etc. So when they get comfortable, they can play like they are in a real band and work with the rhythms in music. I also use reference books which provide good, solid information.”

“Details of classes:

• They are generally 2 hours long.
• The rate is $20 pesos per hour.
• Classes generally take place at my apartment, in the City Center
• Mostly in Spanish, but can also explain in English
• Contact Cristian by email: guitarclasses@yahoo.com.ar “

OK, back to Alan writing now. I can vouch for Cristian’s English skills, despite his modesty above… if you have sketchy Spanish skills, I’m sure Cristian will still be able to communicate the important details to you. And anyway, soon you’ll be talking in the international language of music!

Just think, pretty soon, this could be you:

Thanks for reading!

[Photo Credit: jmpznz, under this CC licence]

Costanera Sur – a quiet nature reserve just a stone’s throw from the city

The hustle and bustle of the Microcentro are lost in the cooling mood of the only ecological reserve in the city, the Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur. A stone’s throw away from the trendy, modern Puerto Madero and you find yourself walking along the park’s boardwalk littered with nuzzling couples, parrillas, and more pigeons than you can throw a stick at.

The Costanera Sur’s walkway borders the front of the reserve and from there you can see the greater landscape that opens up into the park. The boardwalk itself is entertaining, with beautiful architecture and sculptures, casual eateries and dozens of pickup games of futbol. Your initial examination of the swampy marshland is only an introduction to the many more birds and interesting views that await you upon entering.

A microcosm of Buenos Aires charm on the Costanera Sur boardwalk

While I am usually a big advocate for close examinations, perhaps looking too closely at the first portion of the park would be a mistake. Due to the popularity of the walkway, and the dozens of adolescents and passersby, more than a few empty bottles and wrappers have been thrown all over the small concrete divider. The view from inside the park provides a much cleaner atmosphere, though the boardwalk itself should not be eschewed…

The culture that cumulates here daily is a microcosm of what makes Buenos Aires so charming. In fact, the history of the reserve owes much of its existence to leftovers. During its construction in the mid-20th century, remnants of demolished buildings and construction debris were discarded into the Rio de la Plata. Gradually the debris, mixed with sand from the river began to create the marshy foundation for what is now the reserve. Soon, the plants began to grow, and not long after the birds followed. The ecological park is the result of this interesting history, and a great location for observing that fascinating border where city and country convene.

[Photo Credit: jmpznz, under this CC licence]

Rent a bike to help explore the nature reserve

The park has two entrances. The main entrance is located on the southern side of the boardwalk and is an excellent place to rent a bicycle for the afternoon. 6 pesos will buy you an hour if you choose to explore the park from a biker’s point of view. This isn’t a bad way to go if you want to maximize your time bouncing around from view to view.

The entire walk around the reserve will take you more than an hour and that’s without stopping to peer through the reeds and to try and identify birds. The reserve offers several viewpoint stops that allow you a moment to pull out your binoculars and scan over the marshes that navigate through the wetlands. If you forget to bring your own, fifty centavos will allow you a peek through the public binoculars that are placed along decks that skirt out over the marshlands.

Spectacular views with interesting backdrops

The views in the reserve are spectacularly endless. From the parks entrance a quick look back gives you a different view of the boardwalk with the city stretching up behind it. Wandering through the dirt laid paths are benches that offer a brief rest while you take in the quiet escape you’ve earned from your walk.

Perhaps most breathtaking are the views on the eastern side of the park. The Rio de la Plata borders this edge of the reserve and boats can be seen sailing in the distance. The air here is cooler and cleaner than in the busy city and the grassy areas for sitting are a great place to settle down for a relaxing view…

[Photo Credit: jmpznz, under this CC licence]

This side of the reserve not only boasts amazing views of the river, but one of the best of the city. As you’ve chosen an afternoon away from the crazy downtown streets, it’s more than rewarding to see the city settled in the distance among a foreground of reeds and cattails.

Hide away from busy Buenos Aires down by the river

If you’ve entered the park from the south your walk continues past more scenes of the city and river. The river offers a true boardwalk where with some innovation and a keen eye you can find the entrance from inside the reserve and walk out along the river. On a hot day, or if you’re looking for a truer sense of solitude, this is one of the best hiding places in the city.

A closer look at the passing barges and water below will bring you even further away from the demanding pace of downtown. The northern side of the park offers many other surprises for those with a sharp eye. If you’re riding your rented bicycle too fast you may miss the small veterinary clinic and adoption center at the northern entrance of the park. Designed to offer veterinary assistance to the many birds that inhabit the reserve, you can see hawks and larger birds of prey that may usually be flying too high overhead for such a close examination. The small building also houses some wayward dogs that are now up for adoption; probably a better bet if you’re a Buenos Aires inhabitant rather than a traveler.

The end of a relaxing day at the Costanera Sur, Buenos Aires

From here, you’ve almost completed your circle. Your choices of return are to take the northern exit and walk back using the footpath, stopping for any number of snacks along the way (sure to be meat). Or, heading back from inside the park instead gives you a chance to prolong your afternoon oasis and take in more of the reserve.

When you do in fact decide to head on out of the nature reserve, Puerto Madero and the water diques are your transition home. You’ve probably found yourself hours later and the countless restaurants and bars located here are a perfect way to end your afternoon, or begin your evening. Whether you’re a Buenos Aires native or first time visitor, the Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur is an ideal way to escape from the city without the headache of organizing day trips or the burden of their cost. Whether you’re a country mouse stuck in the city, or simply looking for an afternoon off, put this attraction near the top of your list.

Just a quick note to let everyone know that, now we’re officially in Spring, I am once again offering private, guided, walking tours of Buenos Aires City Center. These sightseeing tours cover the main attractions in the historical center of the city, such as Plaza de Mayo, Avenida de Mayo, Plaza Congreso, the Casa Rosada, the Cathedral, Cafe Tortoni, and a whole lot more.

CLICK HERE FOR FURTHER INFORMATION AND TOUR BOOKING DETAILS.

Hope to see you soon!

[Note from Alan: Sorry for the long gap in posting here at the Buenos Aires Argentina Guide. But let's not dwell on that for too long, as here's a brand new post from Tango Cherie - author of our excellent Guide to Tango Salons in Buenos Aires - reviewing Chique, one of her favorite milongas in the city. And if you are interested in booking Tango Shows in Buenos Aires, let us know!]

Chiqué – Useful Information

Thursday afternoons 4pm-10pm (tango lessons from 2pm – 4pm); Entrance fee of 10 pesos; Reservations on 4201-7199 or 15-6140-7830

Organizer: Julio Auliel / DJ: Dany Borelli – “el mejor DJ de Buenos Aires” (and that’s the truth!)

Tango dancing in an authentic Spanish club

Chiqué is held every Thursday afternoon on the first floor of Casa Galicia, a Spanish club in Congreso (near the city center), and there is an elevator. A Spanish restaurant is on the second floor. The hall consists of a very old wooden dance floor in excellent condition, which is surrounded by tables with tablecloths, women sitting on one side, men on the other, and couples at the end in the traditional manner.

There is a small stage at one end where the DJ does his thing. The other end of the salon has big windows with a balcony. There is no physical bar, but waitresses (Pato and Vivi) take all orders to the kitchen where they are filled by bartender Armando just the same. There is a coat check, and a bathroom attendant. Julio, the organizer, and his wife, Mirta, are always there to welcome their guests. Patrons are expected to order drinks, from bottled water to champagne. Snacks are also available.

A friendly, welcoming milonga

This milonga has a family feel – very comfortable and friendly. There are good dancers but people don’t go there to strut their stuff; they go to mix and mingle and have fun dancing. The Cabeceo (the inviting to dance with nods of the head) is strictly observed, but still the milonga feels informal and relaxed. There is no pressure or elitism.

A few foreigners attend, but the milonga is not dripping with them and those who prey on them. The dancers are well-groomed and well-dressed and generally between the ages of 50-80, but with younger exceptions. If a lady isn’t dancing much, Julio himself will invite her. Or Ruben Aybar might (my partner), who is an excellent milonguero and teacher.

Strictly Tango

Unlike some other milongas, there are no tandas of other types of music. It’s strictly tango (tango, vals and milonga) in Chiqué.

Chiqué used to be held at Club Español where it drew many more attendees due to the elaborate architecture. Many tourist groups would pay to go into the milonga just to gape at it’s beautiful gilt salon. This isn’t so in Casa Galicia, which is still very nice, but nothing extraordinary in terms of architecture. There is an image of Santiago el Major in a glass case on the wall, and several huge oil paintings of the homeland (which I suppose could use a wash). There are chandeliers and gewgaws on the ceiling, and Julio is planning on installing air conditioning soon.

DANY BORELLI – “THE BEST TANGO DJ IN BUENOS AIRES”

Help support Chiqué

What concerns me about this milonga, which is one of my favorites and one I never miss, is that with the move from Club Español, some people have gone elsewhere. And if more people don’t begin to frequent this new location, perhaps Julio will be in trouble.

However, as of now, Chiqué is a great place to spend a charming Thursday afternoon sampling the Buenos Aires milonga scene, before running off to dinner or to dance at a late-night milonga.

Cherie’s Tango Services

If you are interested in trying out Chiqué, or indeed another milonga in Buenos Aires, you will be fine going along by yourself, even as a novice, and you will likely be warmly welcomed. However, we understand that some people are a little apprehensive about their first visit to a milonga, which is why Cherie and her partner Ruben offer to accompany you there and make your tango experience in Buenos Aires a fun and authentic one.

If you are interested in this, or want to find out more about their other tango services and tours, you can contact Ruben & Cherie on the following details:

• Email: BsAsMilonga@aol.com
• Telephone: 4932-5027 (from within Buenos Aires)
• Blog: Tango Cherie

The famous bookstores of Avenida Corrientes

Welcome to Buenos Aires, one of the most literary cities on the planet. The people here know the value of a good book, whether it’s poetry, fiction, anthropology, self-help, psychology (not only can you bet that most porteños have read some Freud, but there is even an area of Palermo – Villa Freud – named after him!), or art.

If you wish to properly observe this social fact, you absolutely must visit the bookstores of Corrientes, the famous avenue that bristles with the action of theaters, cinemas, cafes, shops, and people with their noses stuck in used copies of anthologies of Argentine history or poetry.

Buenos Aires’ bookstore hotspot

Every bookstore has its own history and character, but all of them proudly display extensive collections of works by Argentine and Latin American authors and artists, as well as North American and classical European works, calendars, and CDs. Very few of them have any English language sections, although if you dig around you should find a few English offerings here and there.

Most of the bookstores have primarily new books, and some used books too. With books scattered here, there and everywhere, presentation is not a priority – very different to more upscale bookstore chains in Buenos Aires like Boutique del Libro or El Ateneo.

If you don’t read Spanish, you’re probably still going to enjoy perusing the stores simply because they are unique in their atmosphere and awesome in their vast quantity of texts. You could always get a children’s book or calendar as a souvenir. Or maybe it’s about time you learned to read Spanish! It’s a beautiful language that is truly rich in expressions and has hundreds of years of literary heritage.

Here are some of my favorite spots for book-hunting on Corrientes. The best way to visit them is to start at the Obelisco (subway station Carlos Pellegrini, on Av. 9 de Julio) and walk up Corrientes going westward (towards Av. Callao). The places listed below go in order from east to west so you can follow them like a walking tour. You could spend thirty minutes briefly poking your head into them, or an entire afternoon going through the immense selections…

Obel Libros

This modest bookstore has been in operation for about ten years and is run by a friendly middle-aged man who will be excited to practice his English with you. The special items you will find here are encyclopedias for students, books focusing on Latin American social and economic matters, and used novels. Books are AR$15-30 on average.

Cuspide Libros

If you want professional guides for things such as computers, culinary arts, tourism, and hostelry (in Spanish), Cuspide offers a wide range of these books. It also has the usual offerings of cheaply produced novels and non-fiction books, ranging between about AR$20 and AR$40.

Libreria Lucas

At Lucas you will find a good selection of well-kept used books, which might interest collectors or book sellers. Also here are plenty of children’s books.

Libreria Hernandez

There are two Hernandez locations on Corrientes, within a few blocks of each other. A very extensive selection of books is offered, with topics such as Latin American revolutions, Che Guevara, economics, politics, Peronism, Argentine history, religion (you may notice that there are a lot of books about Judaism, a subject Argentines are fascinated by, due to the large Jewish population here), self-help, and psychology.

A nice gift idea would be one of the colorful cookbooks with recipes for traditional porteño favorites. You can even find a few cookbooks in English, such as one that explains methods for the traditional Argentine asado (barbeque). Also at Hernandez is a great collection of art books, with a focus on artists from Argentina and Buenos Aires. There is no English section here.

Libreria Libertador

Don’t miss this classic Corrientes bookstore, with its unbelievably cheap classics by Spanish and Latin American authors (AR$5-10), poetry collections (AR$6), children’s books (AR$3), and offerings by Shakespeare, Kahlil Gibran, Henry James, and more. The prices are low enough that you might buy books even if you can’t read Spanish!

If you are traveling around Argentina, you might also look for the nicely done travel guides published by the newspaper El Clarin (AR$5). They can come in handy and are much lighter than the Lonely Planet you are probably lugging around.

Also at Libreria Libertador there are random items such as dollhouse parts and furniture, calendars with themes of Argentina and Buenos Aires, old magazines that will delight collectors, heaps of crossword puzzle books, great CDs by famous composers such as Beethoven and Vivaldi with booklets providing information about the music (just AR$5, incredible), and best of all, a backroom full of dirty magazines and videos. Bring one of those home for the kids!

Posada Libros

This enormous bookstore stretches back into a building big enough for two businesses. You’ll find the usual suspects here: cheap novels (AR$10-15), books on the humanities (philosophy, anthropology, religion, AR$15-40), CDs (Latin and classical music), and so on. Mainly it’s worth visiting Posada Libros just to see so many books in one place.

And there ends this short Corrientes bookstore walking tour through this busy section of Buenos Aires City Center. I think you deserve a break…

Buenos Aires Argentina Guide Special Tips

While you are bookstore-hopping, watch out for the plenty of artisans who set up their displays on the sidewalks of Corrientes. Also you’ll walk by some of Buenos Aires’ famous theaters, so you could inquire about the latest spectacles.

If you get hungry, head to Pizzeria Guerrin (Alan’s favorite pizza restaurant in Buenos Aires), or for a mid-day coffee break, to El Gato Negro (a beautiful old cafe and spice store).

This black cat in Buenos Aires might not be so unlucky…

On a chilly fall or winter day in Buenos Aires, there is nothing more likely to give you warmth and a big smile than having a delicious spiced tea or coffee in El Gato Negro, one of the city’s most historical establishments. The cafe was originally a spice store founded by a Spanish settler in 1929. His name was Victoriano Lopez Robredo, and he had spent years traveling in Asia and Siberia, collecting exotic spices and flavors. He brought them to Buenos Aires and named this cafe El Gato Negro after another famous cafe back in Madrid.

Now El Gato Negro is a reminder of the city’s European roots, and a wonderful place to read a newspaper or the book you recently bought at one of Avenida Corrientes’ many bookstores, or even to enjoy a gourmet dinner in its elegant upstairs dining room.

Heady aromas of teas, coffees and spices

As you walk into the cafe, you are instantly overcome by the mixtures of aromas. Freshly ground coffee, cardamom, black and green teas, and ginger swirl together in the air, hovering over the people sitting at tables or buying bags of spices at the counter. You almost have the sensation of being in an Arab market in the middle of Buenos Aires. Grab a seat and be prepared to relax for an hour or two in the company of a hot drink.

The truth is that El Gato Negro does have rather daunting prices for its offerings, partly due to the fact that it is a fairly touristy environment these days (as with most historical locations), but also because its coffees and teas are mostly imported and of high quality. A delicious delight like the cafe al jengibre, with freshly ground coffee, cream, ginger, honey and cinnamon, will run you AR$9. This is quite a lot for a small coffee. However, I still think El Gato Negro is worth a visit solely to experience its lovely old world atmosphere.

Try delicious treats like Irish coffees or vanilla-cinnamon infused teas

Other treats to try here are their Irish coffees (AR$9-12), which offer a bit of alcohol to warm you up on a chilly day, and their loose leaf teas and infusions (AR$3.50-9) such as vanilla-cinnamon, green tea-orange, green tea-ginger, and mint. Don’t miss specialties such as the cafe cardamomo with fresh cardamom seeds (AR$8) or their delightful cappucino (AR$7.50). To accompany your bevarage, El Gato Negro has some tempting desserts and pastries, such as brownies, medialunas, and alfajores.

If you come to El Gato Negro for a light lunch, you could order a sandwich with ham and cheese (AR$10), some picadas (AR$7-22), or one of their gourmet sandwiches with steak, chicken, or cheese (AR$9-15).

El Gato Negro is an acclaimed cafe notable, recognized for its historical importance in Buenos Aires. Most of the original wooden furniture has been preserved, and its a fabulous place to sit and watch people come in to relax after an afternoon of dizzying shopping on bustling Avenida Corrientes in the city center of Buenos Aires.

An interesting range of food, but at a price

El Gato Negro also has a restaurant area upstairs that serves full-course dinners at rather lofty prices. Here you will find unique bistro-style dishes and a full wine-list that should please any palate. The prices, however, are not so pleasing for travelers on a budget. Among their starters, El Gato Negro has caesar salads with shrimp, regular salads, and a spiced mushroom tart (AR$12-19).

For main dishes, some examples are the lamb risotto (AR$26), the scalloped pork with curried corn pudding (AR$25), stir-fried vegetables with your choice of chicken, beef, pork, or shrimp (AR$16-25), saffron risotto with mussels and shrimp (AR$28), fish in almond sauce over herbed couscous (AR$26), penne with either tomato or cheese sauce (AR$19), and salmon with vegetable ratatouille (AR$30).

For desserts, try the parfait de Cassis (AR$12) or the chocolate mousse with walnuts (AR$14). All in all, El Gato Negro is a place for fine-dining in a unique setting, and it’s worth the prices if you really need to eat something besides bife de chorizo con pure de papas for a change. The wine list has good Argentine favorites like Benjamin Nieto and Santa Julia, and also, somewhat surprisingly, you can get a cup of the house wine for only AR$6.

Take a little of El Gato Negro away with you

If you are souvenir-shopping, El Gato Negro has lovely little spice tins and boxes with their signature black cat over a lush red background. Or, if you are staying long-term in Buenos Aires, this is a good spot to find things that can be difficult to obtain elsewhere in the city, such as exotic spices, soy sauces, couscous, dried mushrooms, fresh and dried spices from all over the world, spice mix for making asado, or dried candied fruits such as kiwis, pears, and pineapples.

[Photo Credit: aardvark]

El Gato Negro: The Verdict

• Overall cafe rating: (3/5) As a cafe, the coffees and teas taste fantastic, but are overpriced, and the desserts are not especially life-changing.
• Buenos Aires Authenticity Factor: (4/5) The atmosphere is wonderful and takes you back in time. Stay here for an hour to relax between visiting sites along Avenida Corrientes, and try to imagine what Buenos Aires life was like 80 years ago.
• Value: (2/5) As already mentioned, El Gato Negro is not so easy on your wallet. However, if you really appreciate a good organic coffee brew, this is one of the only places in the city you’ll find it.

Buenos Aires Argentina Guide Special Tip

Spend an afternoon perusing the bookstores and theaters on famous Avenida Corrientes, then finish your day with a hot ginger-honey-cinnamon coffee treat. Or make reservations to have a fancy dinner upstairs at El Gato Negro for a special night.

[Photo Credit: adapar]

Dancing Tango in the Confiteria Ideal, Buenos Aires [Photo credit: Gerrysan]

Note from Alan – We are lucky enough to welcome a seasoned Buenos Aires tango and milonga expert to the Buenos Aires Argentina Guide, in the form of Cherie Magnus, from the Tango Cherie blog (see the end of this post for more info on Cherie). Her first offering is an excellent guide to the types of tango salon in Buenos Aires, for those interested in the real world of social tango dancing in the city. So, over to you Cherie…

If you want to dance tango in Buenos Aires, where do you go?

Actually it depends on many things: your age, what style you dance, what day or night of the week you want to go out, if you go with or without a partner, and so on…

Dancing social tango in Buenos Aires has nothing to do with the Tango Show Dancing on the streets of San Telmo, La Boca, calle Florida, or Recoleta, or the many Tango Cena-Shows with an orchestra, stage dancers and dinner. The first thing to know about tango is that what you’ll see in those places is a different dance – Tango for Export. And that is another post entirely!

Experience Authentic Social Tango in Buenos Aires

If you want to experience authentic social tango, you really need to know the best places for you to go to watch and dance. You could pick up one of the many free tango publications from shoe salons and hotels which list all of the milongas (places to dance social tango), but unless you have lots of time and money to explore each one, you can’t tell which is right for you. And that’s why Ruben & Cherie (as well as other bilingual local dancers) provide a service to help tango tourists get the most out of their visits to Buenos Aires. They know where you can have the most fun and how to break the codigos, and will even take you there themselves.

If you are interested in their tango services, you can contact Ruben & Cherie using the following details:

• Email: BsAsMilonga@aol.com
• Telephone: 4932-5027 (from within Buenos Aires)
• Blog: Tango Cherie

Click here to view the embedded video.

Types of Tango Salon in Buenos Aires

First, a tip: when checking where to go to mingle with the locals in Buenos Aires on the dance floor, remember that dances in the same salon vary greatly depending on the organizer, day of the week, time of day etc. In other words, every milonga at Region Leonesa or Canning will not be the same.

The following is a general break-down of the different types of places to dance tango in Buenos Aires, with some examples of each…

Salon de Baile

A formal atmosphere especially for dancing, with predominantly elegant attire, tables with tablecloths, uniformed waiters, tango codes are strictly respected, professional DJs play tango, vals and milonga music of the 1930’s-50’s, often with tandas of Latin and Jazz music. The public here is older (50-80) with an intermediate to high level of dancing in the close-embrace milonguero style. Women and men sit on opposite sides of the salon and use the cabaceo. The afternoon milongas tend to be more formal and traditional than the late night dances.

Examples in Buenos Aires: El Arranque, Gricel, Salon Canning, Viejo Correo, Los Consegrados, Maipu 444, Lo de Celia, El Beso, Chique.

Confiteria bailable

This old-fashioned type of salon has many of the same characteristics of the Salons de Baile, but also has a restaurant. The public is more varied, with lots of groups. The only example today is the Confiteria Ideal, which is famous for its long life and its architecture. Nowadays only a few Salons de Baile have restaurants, such as Nino Bien and El Beso, but they are milongas first, and only very few of the clients order food from the kitchen.

Club de Barrio

The dance floors are cement basketball courts or the club restaurant. Meals are usually available. Predominantly attended by the neighborhood families and older married couples; the music includes tango, jazz and tropical.

Examples in Buenos Aires: Sin Rumbo, Los Bohemios, Sunderland, Club Chicago.

Baile Joven

Informal atmosphere, young public (18-30), variety of casual dress, often with live music and dance exhibitions. More relaxed standards, a more diverse level of dancing, and more salon-style than close embrace. You will hear the music of Piazzolla, some rock ‘n’ roll, as well as salsa and cumbia.

Examples in Buenos Aires: La Estrella, La Viruta, Parakultural.

Aire Libre

Outdoor milongas that attract a wide variety of dancers.

Examples in Buenos Aires: La Glorieta and Plaza Dorrego (year round) and La Calesita (in summer).

An Aire Libre milonga in Plaza Dorrego, San Telmo [Photo credit: nyluke]

Practicas

Informal, bare-bones ambiance, no professional DJ.

Examples in Buenos Aires: Cochabamba 444, El Motivo, Tangocool, Soho Tango.

Gay Milongas

Informal, relaxed atmosphere, anybody can dance with anybody, alternative music along with the classics.

Examples in Buenos Aires: La Marshall, TangoQueer.

Coming soon from Cherie – reviews of different tango milongas around Buenos Aires…

About Cherie Magnus

Cherie Magnus is a published travel writer and dance critic from Los Angeles, and an expat tango dancer and teacher in Buenos Aires since 2003. She and her Argentine partner Ruben Aybar also do bilingual Tango Tours. Last year they were finalists in the Campeonato Metropolitano de Tango de Buenos Aires. She’s working on a memoir, The Church of Tango, and one of her pieces is included in a soon-to-be-published anthology on San Miguel de Allende. You can read more on her blog, TangoCherie.

When the ridiculously-named Courtney Taylor-Taylor sang (as lead singer of the Dandy Warhols) that every day should be a holiday, he probably didn’t realize that his wish could so easily be fulfilled.

Simply come to Argentina, where every day really is a holiday. Of sorts.

OK, so I’m exaggerating somewhat, but there are so many national holidays and assorted celebratory days here, that it’s not far from the truth. In Argentina, it seems, every dog has his day, or feriado. From conventional days like Love Day (Dia del Amor, 14th November) and National Tango Day (Dia Nacional del Tango, 11th December), to wild and wacky ones like Train Tracks day (Dia del Riel, 18th July) and Day of the Noodle Maker (Dia del Obrero Fideero, 22nd May), they’re all here.

Hell, I’ve even heard that there is a National Day of the Mullet in the works. [Note: I was talking to myself at the time]

Yes, it’s “National Flag of Argentina Day”

ARGENTINE PIGEONS ARE FIERCELY PATRIOTIC

Still, today is a real holiday, and the streets are deadly quiet, as per most national holidays here. We all have the day off for Dia de la Bandera (National Flag Day, in Argentina), which is officially on the 20th June, but always gets put on the third Monday of June, so that we get to enjoy a long weekend. Read on to learn a little more about the Argentine National Flag.

Manuel Belgrano, Creator of the National Flag of Argentina

MANUEL BELGRANO’S STATUE AND FLAG IN PLAZA DE MAYO, BUENOS AIRES

Manuel Belgrano. I like the bloke. He is close to my heart, because you can find him on the Argentine 10 peso note, and I like money. So obviously I slightly prefer both Juan Manuel de Rosas and Julio Argentino Roca, despite their brutal tendencies, them being on the 20 peso and 100 peso notes respectively.

Anyway, Belgrano was, as we sometimes say here in Buenos Aires, a Don.

No, that doesn’t mean he was a onetime supporter of the now sadly defunct Wimbledon F.C. (shock English FA Cup Winners in 1988, thanks to a great Lawrie Sanchez header, and a Dave Beasant penalty save – the first ever English cup final penalty save at that. OK, sorry for the ’soccer’ aside, I’m a little obsessed).

Instead, I mean Don, as in an all round good chap, because Belgrano was indeed a man of many talents – national flag designing was just the tip of the iceberg.

For a start, his full name was Manuel José Joaquín del Corazón de Jesús Belgrano, and my full respect has to go out to any man that gets through life with a mouthful of a name like that hanging over him. But not only that, Buenos Aires born Belgrano was a successful lawyer, politician, economist and military leader.

Belgrano and the Dia de la Bandera de Argentina

Most importantly of all, Belgrano was a commander in the Argentine Wars of Independence, making himself a national hero in the process. It was during this time, in 1812, that Belgrano created the national flag of Argentina, for his troops to fight under.

To cut an increasingly long story/blog-post short, Belgrano later died of dropsy on June 20th, 1820, which is why we celebrate the Dia de la Bandera here in Argentina on the anniversary of his death each year. Except of course, that the date is changed slightly to allow for a lazy long weekend.

I’m sure Manuel doesn’t mind about the date change. After all, he has all those lovely 10 peso notes to console himself with…

YOU TOO WOULD LOOK THIS SMUG IF YOU WERE ON THE TEN PESO NOTE

Pablo at D for Disorientation also has a couple of great posts on Flag Day too, from the perspective of a Rosarino (Rosario being where Belgrano first hoisted his newly designed flag back in 1812).

Jeff Barry, over at at Buenos Aires, City of Faded Elegance, one of my favorite blogs about my adopted city, recently started what should be a very interesting series of posts about deteriorating and abandoned buildings in Buenos Aires.

He started the series with a post about an abandoned building on calle Bolivar in the barrio of Barracas, and tells an interesting story about the lives that would have once been led in crumbling buildings like these. It really is this type of deteriorating building and the stories within that gives a city like Buenos Aires authenticity and an interesting edge – we would be far worse off without these reminders of days gone by.

Jeff then invited other bloggers to join in the series by posting their own pictures of abandoned or deteriorating buildings in Buenos Aires, or indeed anywhere else. So far, Tango Cherie is the only Buenos Aires blogger to step up to the plate, with her post on run-down buildings in Havana, Cuba, that are in fact still very much lived in, despite their state of disrepair.

I decided to join in with the series, so here is my photo entry:

Abandoned building on calle Alsina, Monserrat

This building is found on the 400 block of Alsina, just across the street from one of my favorite old cafes in Buenos Aires, La Puerto Rico (great coffee and pastries by the way – review coming soon). It is also just a block away from Plaza de Mayo, so you would imagine it would be a prime location. However, despite that, I think it has been in more or less the same condition the two years I have lived so far in Buenos Aires, the only changes being the extra foliage growing on its walls, the changing state of its crumbling old facade, and the different fly posters that adorn its boardings each week.

Some similar buildings further down the block (on the corner opposite the lovely old Farmacia de Las Estrellas and above that the Buenos Aires city museum) have a sign on them indicating that the Buenos Aires city government is planning to renovate them and create shop space on the ground floors – however it seems that the separate building shown in my photo might be ignored for a while yet. We’ll see…

I hope that you all enjoyed my entry in this blog post series. Thanks for the great idea Jeff!